3D printing hobbyists are struggling with print consistency
Several 3D printing enthusiasts are encountering issues with inconsistent prints, including variations in clarity and striping on printed parts. They seek advice on troubleshooting these problems, often related to filament type or printer settings.
SOURCES (60)
“So I’m printing in PETG for the last few days and suddenly I’m getting prints like this. I’m assuming it’s because it’s absorbed moisture as I’ve had successful prints prior with this same roll. submitted by /u/jeanyes_ [link] [comments]”
“I am doing some simple tests of PLA with PETG support layer and that is going well but I am getting horizontal lines on my prints. I recently moved and redid all my setup on my printer and everything. I am wondering if it’s vibration related. The print on the right is using a bit of slower speeds. Speeds show are of the 2nd print. My printer is the Snapmaker U1 Slicer is Orca Thanks!! submitted by /u/Little_Scrapper [link] [comments]”
“I just started printing and went cheap on Amazon at first to see if id like it. We'll i do and i have found that a lot of filament is printing very poor. Clumbs, stringy and the such. Can anyone recommend some good filament that wont completely break the bank? submitted by /u/NetBorn7332 [link] [comments]”
“Is it because it’s too cold? I’m trying to print a bracket with 4 holes, large middle hole and 3 alignment holes around it in PETG. Is this an issue with a straight forward solution? I’m try to reverse engineer a part and it needs to be exact. Help please 🙏 Printer - Ender 3 V2 (Stock) Material- white PETG Temperatures- 250C nozzle temp. and 86C Bed temp. Speed - 20mm/s first layer and the rest at 40mm/s Slicer - Cura submitted by /u/bencraw4 [link] [comments]”
“It‘s my first successfull print with new PLA+ 2.0 filament. I printed at 200° nozzle and 60° baseplate at 50mm/s. Any tips on how to get the surfaces cleaner? submitted by /u/Additional-Attempt93 [link] [comments]”
“Hi, Printing with a Bambu P1S, 0.4 mm nozzle, ASA filament with less then 10% moisture. I’m trying to print a mount for on a helmet. I can’t seem to get the print super smooth and strong. I have tried all kinds of settings.. Anyone has the golden tip for me? I tried an acetone fume bath, which helped a little but would love to have the print as clean as possible. I’m using PETG interface as support. submitted by /u/Vecodo [link] [comments]”
“What is the best red petg flow in the dark filament that you've tried? From what I can tell from reading reddit threads, the brightness and duration of glow varies wildly from color to color within the same brand. So, looking for recommendations specifically for red petg. Thanks!! submitted by /u/Lonely-Sorbet [link] [comments]”
“So, I'm printing this object - It's flat, about the size of 2 quarters next to each other and a few mm thick - Really not big or thick at all. I'm printing it at 11% with SUNLU PETG "Transparent" filament, and well... it's just not that transparent! I was really hoping for something much more "clear" - I don't know if this is possible to do in PETG with 11% infill, but if it is, can someone share with me how/ what brand I should try? Thanks. submitte”
“So I’m pretty new to 3d printing and have made a previous post about a print coming out weird. The cause of which was humidity. I have since then gotten a dryer that keeps the filament below 20% relative humidity. And still the prints come out with signs of humidity and even some times, relatively often, completely stringy. Which to my understanding is when the bed adhesion wasn’t strong enough causing the printer to evidently start printing midair. The prints come out with issues resembling iss”
“I printed a deck box using my Bambu Lab A1 in PLA. Most of the print is fine but there is a small issue with the tracks for the sliding door mechanism. The specific area is hard to get to with a tool. It's also curved which is what is causing difficulty when trying to slide the door. I tried to lightly heat the spot with a heat gun but no success. Any ideas to fix this one corner spot? So far I'm thinking either: - Buying some clay shaping tools, heating it up with a heat gun and then us”
“Hello, this is my first print out of BambuLab P1S, printed with the standard PLA. I've primed it and sanded it down, and began painting by hand with various brushes. this is after its second coat, and there seems to be some streaking, unevenness going on. Any help? I've watched this video for a simple guide. I've thinned out my paints, and paint as few strokes as possible to cover the surface area of each piece, but i seem to missing something. Did i sand too much in these areas henc”
“This is printed bottom to top, so this are would be the last thing to print. Bamboo lab a1 mini, .12 system preset. submitted by /u/shtaaap [link] [comments]”
“I'm trying to print some anti vibe feet for my printers, and I got one successful petg print. Washed build plate with soap and water, reapplied glue stick and have had two fails in a row. It doesn't seem to want to stick to bed. What went wrong, what's going wrong? submitted by /u/TheRectalAssassin [link] [comments]”
I've been chasing "mystery print failures" for weeks: stringing, brittle parts, PETG snapping mid-print. Cleaned nozzles, releveled bed, replaced the PTFE tube. Nothing fixed it. Then I actually measured the RH in…
“I’m using Nylon Cf filament and for some reason the outside looks great but the inside is terrible does anyone know what to do? submitted by /u/Thatswhyn0t [link] [comments]”
“Printing with PLA on a Bambu A1. The first piece on the top left printed just fine but the next three pieces all have this wavy texture on the flat parts. I slowed the print down to silent mode and it still happened. The PLA was dried in a dryer. The only thing that changed between prints was that I kept getting a 'filament is stuck' error when trying to print directly from the dryer. I think I have the ptfe tube too long and the filament was getting bogged down. So I mounted the filamen”
“I'm looking for feedback and recommendations for filaments. My collaborator has a variety of the newer Bambu printers and typically my parts are done on a H2D. I have some parts that are part of a basic 4 mecanum wheel assembly that carries up to 2oolbs. I see that there's the Bambu PPA-CF is their highest strength filament. I would like to use that but the price is prohibitive. If you can offer up and recommendations for a comparable filament please lmk. submitted by /u/bzma”
“I have access to a lot of 3d printed parts and UV printing them seems like a really cool combo. mostly PLA and PETG, nothing huge. how picky is adhesion on those materials? do you guys print straight onto them or prep the surface first? submitted by /u/Ok_Step_1128 [link] [comments]”
“Hi all, Has anyone got any recommendations for fast colour changing PLA? Have a roll of Ender rainbow PLA but even on decent size prints it just about gets onto the next colour. Any recommendations of decent brands/colours would be great! Thanks. submitted by /u/alloy_dnb [link] [comments]”
“Hello, It all starts with calibrating the filament: temperature, flow, retraction, etc. Therefore, almost every filament is different, and there can be a big difference between PLA and PLA. It is worth storing gcode files on the printer if you need to re-slice the model for each filament type? Or isn't it enough to save the file name with "PETG", including the manufacturer and type of filament? What do you think about this? submitted by /u/nevergonehu [link] [comm”
“Very new to printing with PETG, I have a Bambu labs p1s with textured PEI plate. I’ve noticed the PETG sticks a little too well to the plate especially skirts and the initial line of filament that is extruded at the beginning of every print. I’ve had success removing the stubborn spots by heading the bed and peel off but are there any recommendations where I can get my PETG to “pop” off my plate like PLA does when it cools? submitted by /u/Camo430 [link] [comments]”
“I think it's maybe wet filament. But I'm not sure if there are some other problems like over extruding or the belt tensions being off. I'm using an sv06 with Overture professional pla. I had the nozzle at 215. Which I think is a little too high but I didn't expect it to be this bad. submitted by /u/Adventurous_Tomato_1 [link] [comments]”
“I am having a bit of a disparity in results between two Bambu Labs printers and keen to figure out what the issues is. Bit of background: I have access to two Bambu Labs Printers, an A1 which is my personal one and is about a year old, and an A2, which is maybe 2 months old with very limited run time as of yet. Both of the example images are the same design, with the same settings. I haven’t changed many settings, other than more infill density, snug normal supports, and slower first layer speed”
“Hello everyone. Is there anything to know about printing PETG-GF on a stock Bambu A1 printer? I know a hardened steel nozzle is a must but which one would work and is there a brand other than that that I should get? submitted by /u/MinecraftGuy2000 [link] [comments]”
“Hi everybody, Bambu Lab A1 , and i started a few prints on it. But today morning, the prints have these imperfections of it on the curved parts except the flat back It’s Bambu PLA Basic btw. It was printed at Standard speed. What do you guys think it is? Thanks in advance, y’all the best submitted by /u/aytda [link] [comments]”
“Yes, I know that's exactly why we are using them together, but sometimes I expect a minimum of adherence! This was a gridfinity stack with PLA for the part and a layer of PETG on the second extruder of my X2D using the default bambulab settings with standard bambulab filaments. At the end the second grid of the stack printed ok and I only had minor visual defaults but it's not the first time it happens and I'm curious about what I should do to increase adherence between two filaments”
“Hey guys, I want to print this Toucan lamp (yes it's the one from Pinterest). I'm using A1M with Bambu PETG Translucent just out from the box. I print on the side to avoid overhang of the 50mm fillet to make the beak and these little defaut appears. I print with default PETG Translucent Bambu settings. What can I do ? (Maybe it's a known issu by the communities but I can find the key word for this) submitted by /u/Viiltra [link] [comments]”
“This is not the first time it's happened. Im printing out a pot for my plant, it's going well for like 30 min or so then when I return to check up on it I find this mess. Idk why it keeps happening. Here's the filament I'm using, on my bambu a1 mini. Idk what temp the extruder or bed were using i just use the default temp submitted by /u/AbiesAromatic1636 [link] [comments]”
“How to print the outer shell with one filament and the infill with a different filament in Bambu Studio/Orca, when the model is a single color? submitted by /u/Putrid-Act-5212 [link] [comments]”
“Hello all, My first time posting because I feel like I have tried everything but no solution. If the answer is in here already, my apologies. While printing with PETG there is always something that goed wrong. I have changed filament and speed settings al all different directions. On my last attempt it went well until layer 4. Then again I got some little balls of filament. I have added some pictures of attempts to calibrate as well. Note: I have dried the filament in the AMS2pro for almost 12h”
“Hi everyone, I’m having a strange quality issue with my Bambu Lab P1S and I’m trying to figure out what could be causing it. I’m printing the exact same model on both a Bambu A1 and a P1S, using the same filament, same 0.4 mm nozzle and very similar 0.16 mm High Quality settings. The A1 prints the face very cleanly, but the P1S consistently produces visible lines/marks on the face, especially around the eyes, nose and mouth. The strange part is that the rest of the model looks good — the problem”
“This is the first bench I’ve made with this filament, it was printed at 205C with 5mm retraction and 60mm/s print speed. I used Creality slicer and an Ender 3 V2. Any ideas what caused the pitting in the hull, the interesting layer lines, the stringing and/or whatever you’d call what has happened to the bottom of the roof? Any help is much appreciated, thank you gurus. submitted by /u/smallangryrodent [link] [comments]”
“Hey everyone Just a general question for discussion, does anyone else have issues with Matte PLA filament specifically? It keeps causing a feed issue with my extruder. I own a Bambu Lab A1 printer with the AMS lite, and I have that filament on the #4 slot, I’m using a 0.4mm stainless steel nozzle I have the temperature set to either 225 or 230, bed temp is 70, nozzle speed is standard and parts cooling fan is 100% I’m thinking I should use a 0.6mm nozzle instead and once I’m done with the filame”
“I have a P1S, using a BIQU Cryogrip Pro Frostbite cold plate, using the Coolplate Supertack setting in Bambu Studio, (I find the Cool plate setting doesn't give good adhesion), printing with PLA and done the printer calibration as well as the software calibration and this happens with many different brands of filaments. The prints themselves always turn out fine but I'm wondering if this is normal or is there something I should be doing to try and fix it? You can see in the second pictur”
“I have successfully printed this once without color swapping within the dual tone filament layers. It's only on the layers where the color painting occurs. Whenever I print it in a solid color I don't have this issue. submitted by /u/swamp_hag92 [link] [comments]”
“I used 2 translucent PETG filaments for this test. Its not too bad but there's a few little horns sticking up here and there. The translucent aspect isn't as clear as I'd like. I'd like to make a cool dragon thingy for my kid using these colors but it's kind of intricate. Can you recommend an adjustment to the settings to smooth it out a bit? Or to improve the translucence? I used the stock Qidi Q2 settings for PETG Ttanslucent. submitted by /u/AffectionateLeg8075”
“Hello everyone, I hope this finds you all well. I have a Bambu lab a1 with ams lite and I'm trying to print this object. As you can see this is what the print is like when it is finished. My supports are enabled, and are on manual tree, and I painted the bottom for supports. I did that because when I put auto tree, it makes supports for all the holes on the sides which are unnecessary and just make the bottom even worse. I'm printing in pet g generic, nozzle temp. 255 and bed temp. 80 de”
“I first printed a single bin to test the settings. Now I'm using the exact same profile and filament, just an hour later. But multiple bins have these gaps at the seam. Can anyone tell me what I'm going wrong? submitted by /u/Locutus123456 [link] [comments]”
“Hello, I have been print this mask. Mid way through the print I noticed the quality had gotten much worse. Any ideas on how this could be the case? Printing in PLA Printing on centuri carbon My best guess is a clog in the nozzle, however I haven't had the printer long and wanted to ask around before delving into it. submitted by /u/Alimoo2 [link] [comments]”
“We got this tri color filament awhile back and quickly learned how ugly it is. Mostly just use it print fidget trash at this point. However, I’m wondering if there’s ways to manipulate it to get a desired result. This piece here was printed all with the same filament and you can clearly see the middle key cap is very different from the others. This key cap was printed separately after it failed initially. Any tips or tricks in the settings to get different results like this one? submitted”
“I’m currently printing PETG CF parts for a engineering project and keep getting parts which have alot of print defects and varying sizes, have a look at the photos. I’ve already dried my filament for 10 hrs and use default PETG CF settings on Bambu lab studio. I’ve seen people online with super smooth prints but I’ve never gotten PETG CF to print as smooth as PETG or PLA. I also frequently see “smooth bands” along my prints and don’t know if that’s what the whole print is supposed to look like.”
“Hello! I am having a lot of trouble printing overhang for this specific print and am wondering best way to resolve this when printing with PLA and PETG. I will attach an image of the part that is breaking and a photo. Printing on Bambu H2D with PETG basic at normal settings just with 3 walls instead of 2. Is normal support sometimes better for very sharp overhang? I am using 0.4mm nozzle and 0.12mm layer height, is that maybe part of the issue? submitted by /u/No_Reading_1593 [link]”
“Hello! As the title says, I'm having trouble with this matte epla filament from esun. Never had a filament so grainy to the touch. Anyway, my bambu A1 truffles to print, nozzle keeps getting clogged. Anyone has the same pla? Is the texture normal? I've tried many matte pla but never one like this. Printing with a 0.4 nozzle. Thank you! submitted by /u/Maximum_Jellyfish_48 [link] [comments]”
“Hey, need our community help. Printed on P1S with ASA-GF, iSANMATE filament, white, dried before for 6 hours. Perfect results, smooth surface. You can see it on the photos. After a while printed using the same filament but gray, and got these ugly surfaces. Also dried the filament. In both cases the chamber was preheat to 50C. Printing temperature was now 270C, outer/inner speed 80/120, flow rate 0.97, cooling fan 10/30. Definitely something was setup differently when I printed first time this A”
“I'm printing 4 identical pieces, and the back left one is consistently turning into a stringy mess. My plates are clean (dawn, then ipa) it's literally just this one back corner that lifts and strings, so I'm assuming it's because of the fan blowing in on it. submitted by /u/WesbroBaptstBarNGril [link] [comments]”
“P1S using Orcaslicer. This is Inland PETG and this is just getting frustrating. The rest of the print would have been basically golden. But these are the back two corners. I thought PETG was supposed to be easy, but I have almost every setting custom now to finally get decent prints and it still sucks at first layer adhesion in those back two spots it seems. submitted by /u/ArdentFox [link] [comments]”
“I'm printing on a ender V3 se and using the standard 0.4 nozzle, I'm printing at 0.1mm layer thickness. I've tried cleaning the build plate using glue and I even bought an enclosure, (I'm printing petg and 255⁰ hot end, 70⁰ bed temp, and the speed is set to 45mm/s). Any sort of help or ideas would be appreciated Ender 3 V3 se Petg 255⁰ Bed temp 70⁰ 45mm/s Ultimaker cuts (slicer) submitted by /u/Legitimate_Crew5568 [link] [comments]”
“I cannot get the hang of printing in PETG. I printed my wife a small clip for the treadmill prior to this shelf and it came out perfectly, so I started a new print for this shelf and it comes out terribly. I can't tell what's going wrong. This is a roll of Overture PETG, it has been overnight dried at 55 and continuously dried as it's fed into my enclosure. I tried a print tower and the results looked worse on top with the lower temp settings. My settings were print temp 230, bed 80.”
“Hello All, Hoping for some assistance. I recently returned a Bambu Lab H2D that was faulty and this time I am testing the replacement machine with a variety of prints. It appeared as though it was outperforming my previous machine, which very rarely had a successful print. I have been trying to print this Spiderman model with my H2D, AMS 2 pro and AMS-HT: https://makerworld.com/.../1275002-spider-man-house-of-m... I am using Bambu Lab red and black filaments. Bambu slicer. I haven't deviated”
“I did dry the filament for around 4 hours on the bed (cardboard box method) at 55°C. But the print still came out like this. submitted by /u/The_3d_artist [link] [comments]”
“I’ve got the phrozen sonic mega 8K and use the phrozen aqua grey resin primarily, but for whatever reason the prints have been doing this as of late. Sometimes they print just fine, others not so much. I’ve tried printing this figure about 4 times now and each time it fails similarly, but in a different spot. I’ve tried various orientations and supports thinking that was the issue, but I’m at a loss. The build plate is clean and the vat has fresh resin, along with both being tightened down fully”
“I bought a brand new Bambu 0.2 mm nozzle for my P1S and I've yet to have a single successful print with it since I got it 3 weeks ago. The photo was taken with 50°C plate temp and basically every possible speed in Orca Slicer halved. submitted by /u/Shot-Addendum-8124 [link] [comments]”
“I’ve tried to print this charmander 3 times, I’ve calibrated extrusion flow , changed the filament profiles from branded to generic, Leveled the bed, it only seems to do it with the orange pla filament, brand new roll so I would assume no moisture. I’m at my wits end and any help is appreciated 🥺 snapmaker u1 btw if that helps. submitted by /u/Exciting_Task_1359 [link] [comments]”
“I like to print miniatures with my Bambu lab A1 and for a good about of time I have dealt with issues like this where the print breaks mid way through. What am I doing wrong. I use pla with a 0.4 nozzle and .08mm layer height. I increase the initial layer expansion of the supports and turn down its speed. Yet nothing I do seems to work. If I try using a smaller nozzle with smaller layer height the issue gets worse. And it gets better with larger layer height but the print looks much worse for th”
“Hi all, I’ve been FDM printing for several years but got my first resin printer 12 months ago. I got several trouble free months of amazing prints. A few months ago I started having failed prints. Nothing changed, printing the same models and they were dropping from the supports. 80% failures, or there about. I stopped using it for a few months and then thought I’d have a go again. I have a heater in the printer enclosure and I think that was disturbing the prints. So I preheated and then turned”
“Hello! I am new to operating a 3D printer and am unsure what is happening here in my print and how to diagnose this issue. The messed up part is printed at an upward angle from the bed in PETG (first photo with support under it) and PLA (no support on the messed up region) on a BambuH2D. The layer lines in these portions have gotten very choppy and uneven. I am unsure how to fix this issue and am wondering what slicing settings I should dig into to diagnose this issue. Printed with 3 walls and 2”
“Running on a Bambu PS1. Flashforge claims a high printing speed but not their volumetric limit. I set that to 25 at a guess. This part is running 150mm/sec perimeters with a .6mm nozzle with layer heights of .35 using a normal hot-end. What took over an hour with conventional PLA and a .4 nozzle only takes 30 minutes and the results look good. My first attempt detached from the bed after a few layers so I put glue stick down and made sure the bed was at 50deg C. I'm surprised and pleased tha”