3D Printer Supports Print Solid Instead of Breakaway
24 posts in the last 60 days, all from r/3Dprinting.
“I'm trying to make this mask for a Halloween prop, I hate dealing with supports, and I've researched for about an hour or so. I clicked on "Support only critical areas," to try and get only the crucial areas supported. But it doesn't look like it's going to print right, some…”
“I have tried everything I feel like. Retraction, no retraction. Wiping, no wiping. Bought a filament dryer. Tried from 205° - 230°. Tried .16 layers. Printing at 15mms. I'm using supports to make infill in a non solid part so I can't change the orientation to try to alleviate…”
“Ax5m pla filament at 245C the top looks melted and the supports are like glued to the print how do I fix this”
Users are experiencing issues with filament adhesion, support structures printing solid, and nozzle performance. They're seeking solutions for these common 3D printing problems.
SOURCES (60)
“This time this failure on tree supports didnt affect the print, but sometimes it does submitted by /u/Maximum_Chemistry_44 [link] [comments]”
“I'm trying to make this mask for a Halloween prop, I hate dealing with supports, and I've researched for about an hour or so. I clicked on "Support only critical areas," to try and get only the crucial areas supported. But it doesn't look like it's going to print right, some areas look like the do need supports but aren't supported, like the gaps on the outline of the mask between supports. I'm using a bambu lab p1s if that is needed. submitted by /u”
“I have tried everything I feel like. Retraction, no retraction. Wiping, no wiping. Bought a filament dryer. Tried from 205° - 230°. Tried .16 layers. Printing at 15mms. I'm using supports to make infill in a non solid part so I can't change the orientation to try to alleviate the issue or the supports don't generate. Plus I want to solve this problem for other prints. Desperate for advice. Thanks in advance. Flashforge Advebturer 5m 95a TPU submitted by /u/Telijahp024 [li”
“Foolishly left a 10hr print with no previous issues running overnight. My mistake. Is there any way to fix this or is my hot end doomed to purple goop encasement forever? submitted by /u/void_fish [link] [comments]”
“Ax5m pla filament at 245C the top looks melted and the supports are like glued to the print how do I fix this submitted by /u/AgileTurnover6600 [link] [comments]”
“it's the third segment out of4 Other ones printed ok. This one... What the hell?Same printer, same plastic has improvised passive thermal camera, so no drafts. submitted by /u/pironiero [link] [comments]”
“With supports and dry filament, clean nozzle. My printer is messing things up. submitted by /u/PeanutEmbarrassed679 [link] [comments]”
“Hi, do you guys have any advises for me for printing this model with less supports? This current print is made of PLA but the final print will be ASA(-GF). Using this much support will be a pain to remove and is also a huge waste of material. I already tried other orientations but since I have a bed slinger (MK4S) I am not sure about the outcome when printing it on an angle only relying on tree supports. Any ideas? submitted by /u/Jannomag [link] [comments]”
“My brother was using this X1C at his home in June and then upgraded to an X2D, so he brought the X1C to me. Immediately I was having issues with being unable to complete a print. I figured out it might be a temperature issue, I am in a 2nd floor apartment and he was in the basement of a house. By the time I determined that might be the issue, there was a clog in the nozzle that I couldn't get out. So we got a new nozzle and a cold plate. Once I replaced the whole hot end and went to print so”
“elegoo slicer is such a piece of shit, i have everything set for PLA supports on a PETG thing to print, and i've gone through lots of youtube, reading, and AI, and the fucking elegoo slicer keeps saying i need some god damn non existant PLA-S that doesn't evern fucking show up on my CC1 interface... it's just PLA but it won't use god damn PLA as a support? that's half the fucking reason i got a multi material printer, and this fuckin piece of shit won't use multi material”
Recently took it upon myself to dial in my settings on my printer to make my prints look better. Started with supports because it seemed the easiest. A lot of trial and…
“one of the both marked supports keep failing me at some point but before the structure links up. i think the problem is that it links up pretty late in the print. i have tried to use regular supports with the same result. any advice thats not cut it in half is appreciated. i tried to make the supports diameter bigger but didnt make it work. using bambu slicer and printing elegoo rapid petg. any advice appreciated. thanks guys and gals. submitted by /u/my_dog_can_dance [link] [c”
“I was discussing with a friend on possible solutions for facilitating support removal on FDM prints, we came up with ideas and when I googled to verify if anyone had already thought of it, to my surprise I found mention of something basically identical on the Prusa forums (link above). So my question is, is there a reason why there's no mention of any manufacturer developing a release agent based solution for supports? In my head it would work like the X2D, but instead of two nozzles you wou”
“I am printing a hollow cylinder with supports, and one of the supports fell out, what do I do? Elegoo cc2 with pla, 60*c build plate 210*c nozzle submitted by /u/AggravatingRow4707 [link] [comments]”
“After getting my third Carbon Fiber splint in my thumb i've decided that gloves is a good thing. How safe is it actually to use cf filament? What happens when the product is finished, is there a need for protection after print aswell? Is GF safer? I've only gotten splinters when using eSun pla cf! When printing other brands it has been fine. submitted by /u/torrtvatten1337 [link] [comments]”
“I recently got a nicer printer (Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2) and have been working on dialing in settings. The test towers in the pic are upside down to show the flat area where tree supports were. As you can see, this area is awful. My Top Z Distance is 0.20 on left and 0.30 on right. I have Ironing Support Interface turned on, but I can't see that it did anything. Material is PLA, bed is at 60, nozzle at 210. he rest of the print is fine but this is a really big issue on large prints. Any hel”
“Tree supports - Does this look correct? Why the different layer sizes? Tree supports always seem to print wrong. It fails at the same point each time... Hi Everyone. First-time poster here. I printed this model successfully the other day, now it;s failed three times in the same place. I'm pretty sure my settings are the same set-up but each time I encounter the tree supports going wrong almost immediately after the brim. The model prints fine until a certain point, then it starts doing the s”
“I'm new to 3D printing (5th day) but I have something to share. I had zero failure through 2kg worth of PLA... until last night. My little print failed repeatedly. When I sat in front of the machine watching, I found out that the printer head moved violently and the first couple of layers got swept away by the movement. So I looked at the slicer's speed section and set all speeds above 100 mm/s to 100 (default included 200 and 500) and finally the object is being printed normally. I had”
“Hey, I just got an A1 with the AMS Lite and I'm having a weird issue. Everything prints fine until the AMS has to change filament. When it switches to another spool, I get error 1200-8007. So far it only happens with my Elegoo PLA. Bambu filament works fine. The Elegoo spool is brand new and was just opened from the vacuum bag. The spool spins freely and I already cut the filament tip before loading it. It's just regular PLA. Has anyone else had this problem with Elegoo PLA and”
“I'm trying to print some tabletop minis and they're coming out extremely brittle. The layers are separating. This guy's legs snapped off as soon as I took him off the print bed. What could the problem be? It is a Creality Ender 3. I'm using Overture PLA and Orca Slicer. submitted by /u/guywiththeface23 [link] [comments]”
“PETG is pulling on the nozzle and producing spaghetti. Is it even possible to use this kind of support? submitted by /u/kuzevan [link] [comments]”
“Hi, I am having a Hard time removing the supports without breaking or scratching the PLA. Do you have any tips? Which tools do you use? Thanks in advance submitted by /u/toka_tq [link] [comments]”
“Hi everyone, I'm having an issue with the first layers printed above Tree Supports on my Bambu Lab A1 Mini . As soon as the print starts on top of the support interface, the first few layers come out rough, crumbly, and uneven. After a few layers, the print quality returns to normal. I've attached photos showing the issue. Printer / Material Bambu Lab A1 Mini Bambu PLA Basic Filament dried in a Sunlu S4 dryer and printed directly from it Humidity during printing: 10-18% RH Calibration Fl”
“Bed adhesion failed for the first time ever since I've been printing with the CC1. It was the purge tower though, not the print itself. How did everyone else fix the tower adhesion issue, if you had one? submitted by /u/No_End_141 [link] [comments]”
“Trying to print an object out in esun PETG on my qidi q2 like ive done a dozen times. At first the base of the model would not adhere to the bed and the supports would print great, after some tinkering I fixed the poor adhesion of the model to the bed and now the supports don't print well. The base of the supports print very very light, also not at all, while the model prints fine. I am at a total lose. I am using the PETG presets for Generic PETG in qidi studio like ive done before with no”
“New to printing and trying to set up and calibrate a new elegoo mars 5 ultra. Using wargamer resin. Set the basic parameters in Chitubox as per their idiot proof settings. Unfortunately as you can see these are the results, what on earth is causing these spatters of resin all over the prints? It’s a brand new printer and I’m not seeing particles in the resin when I filter it back in the bottle, for what it’s worth when I run the tank clean program I get a perfectly flat sheet to peel off the bot”
“So I just got handed an opportunity from my boss, I need to make 10 parts with nylon carbon fiber, thing is I've never used it I'm willing to try at least before we decide to subcontract the job If I can do it, I get $2800 In theory I have all the equipment id need Corexy Printer with heated chamber Hardened steel nozzles Dry box with dissicant Textured pei bed and glue sticks Anyway any advice would be extremely appreciated submitted by /u/TheXypris [link] [comments]”
“Tried printing this magneto helmet 4 times now. Silk PLA obv. First two times the supports gave out on the front bottom points a few hours in, had to cancel. got the 3rd print up to the widows peak, and again the supports didnt hold on to the print and it got flung out. I beefed up the supports around the widows peak, and the two tpoints by the jaw, so far so good. Came home from work to find the middle supports had let loose from the bed, So I grabbed the painters tape and taped em down. Hopefu”
“This isnt the only model to give me grief. But i was printing e.s.monsters zelda. And the straps that are airborne gave me so much grief. Any tips on this? Useing the h2c but had same issues when i had the a1. Every time it happens i just end up cutting the straps printing just those and glueing them on. Or ill split the print. I dont tweek much. Normal setting but with a raft layer. Pla filament. Flesh was sunlu black was bambu. submitted by /u/kitejr [link] [comments]”
“First time using PETG and only my 4th print so I’m extremely new. If I broke a posting guideline I apologize. Looking for some acknowledgment if I just ripped the bottom layer of my print off or if this is supposed to be removed and I just have to hone my support settings. P1S with Sunlu white PETG fed via AMS 2 Pro. Could be humidity issue. I live in Indiana so we’ve been getting crazy flooding. My basement humidity is around 60-65% but the Hygrometer in the AMS is reading in the teens. Filamen”
“Im trying to do calibrations but I cant get past temperature because the bridges fail every time causing other problems throughout the print. what could be causing this? when I watch it I see the first 2 lines make it all the way across but after that the rest fail and fall. Im super new to printing and trying to find the right settings and macros so I can just have reliable prints. willing to share my printer.cfg if anyone asks, just not sure how to share it on here submitted by /u/”
“17hrs into this build and the support is squirrelly. Should I put something underneath to support it? Bambu A1 combo Standard speed 220C .4mm nozzle PLA Pulled from the Bambu maker app submitted by /u/groovemonkey [link] [comments]”
“Hi all, Im pulling my hair out with this. Ive printed this part 4 times now with various settings and 2 different slicers, but i just cant get it to print nicely. Its on my CC2. Can someone please explain what is going wrong and how I should go about fixing it. I have run all the calibrations and adjusted settings accordingly. the rest of the print and all other prints are coming out great, its just where the supports are?!!!! submitted by /u/PsykoViking [link] [comments]”
“Printing the cross guard to a prop sword for a buddy. Using sunlu PLA on a creality v3 SE and this happened. Rest of the items printed look fine so I'm ruling out wet filament. The supports came off fine but left this beneath. I am certain I didn't take off a layer when I took them off too. Anyone have any ideas what might have caused it? Just bad luck? submitted by /u/aslowersloth [link] [comments]”
“Someone broke my buddy’s jet engine model that he got offline, he asked if I could reprint him a new fan blade. I couldn’t find the exact file so I shrunk an existing one down. It keeps failing, I’ve tried adding or removing walls, nozzle size, print thin walls, layer height, nothing I do works and I get the same problems. It’s either the walls don’t exist or I have a lot of bumps. Does anyone have any advice. TIA. Edit: forgot to add Bambu A1 and I’m using sunlu silky red copper submitted”
“For context the fucked up side was laying like face down on the bed and when it finished printing, the supports weren't connected to the object and this happened. I don't know why I turned on that setting. Anyways, is there any method to fix this? submitted by /u/CreeperCraft2853 [link] [comments]”
“HELP! I have a Mars 3 Pro and it's been failing over and over again. More recently it looks like theres extra partially cured resin on the plate other than the supports. I've tried to adjust the settings, level the plate over and over again, and replaced the FEP. Any ideas why? I checked the lamp and it looked fine. Any assistance would be appreciated! I'm not even sure what to google to try to troubleshoot further. submitted by /u/joshrint [link] [comments]”
“For reference, my Elegoo Centauri Carbon has had months of printing but recently ive had to reset my pc, resulting in all my slicer settings being lost. So then, ive had to readjust and recalibrate all my settings but now my printer prints what appears to be blobs/beads for its supports. The actual model actually ends up perfectly fine with no uneven extrusion, blobs/beads or any major flaws (hence why i doubt this is a hardware issue) but the supports are the ones constantly failing due to the”
“So I read online to soak ABS filament in acetone, and then run it through the tears of Ender users and I’d never have a print fail. What happened?! submitted by /u/TheOGCJR [link] [comments]”
“Printing gridfinity, 15% infill at 260 C Elegoo Rapid PETG. Issue started occuring last night where it failed during the wall of a 3x3, now failing at the base even though I cleaned the nozzle. Problem is always the same, it just randomly creates a small blob and gets stuck in it. I dont see it extruding more material into the blob, or the gear eating in new filament. Could the nozzle be clogged? I will probably replace the nozzle and the only other thing that comes to mind is that I should stop”
“My K2 with FCS is putting out this when i try to print a reactor cooling tower. I canceled the print after this layer but cant figure out a fix , any advise? submitted by /u/Atlas_Titan_101 [link] [comments]”
“So what are people using for support interface materials for CF materials? I have dialed in the PLA/PETG, ASA & ABS with HIPS, PA with ASA interfsce materials and they all work great. But I ran a PLA-CF material the other day, and the interface materials all ran like garbage/didnt work. PETG, Bambu Support for PLA, Bambu Support for PLA/PETG. For those with PLA-CF/PETG-CF materials, are you just not using a different interface materials or? submitted by /u/Gwendolyn-NB [link] ”
“Ender 3 pro PLA So last night I had a print failure and it did the spaghetti thing for a while. Today, it is having trouble loading any new filament after cleaning it up and the gears just click. I’m new to printing and I am at a loss at how to fix it. Anyone in the community have ideas? The gears will just click black and forth and can’t grab the filament. I can push the filament through and it comes out normally through the end. I tried unplugging and replugging the wire that goes to the extru”
“I’m late 95 hour print and over the past 2 hours on my Neptune 4 the printer plate started jittering bad supports are collapsing and the print keeps hitting the supports that are left it’s hitting them hard enough that I can hear it from the next room over and it’s only getting worse and I don’t have time for a reprint or the filament (pla) (Edit) the video was taken at 50% speed and 20% is pretty much the same only started to see a change at 10% speed submitted by /u/turtle_beacher”
“It's a long print so I'd prefer not having to reprint. Under these features is a magnet, which likely caused the layer to fail. The only solution I have right now is to print and glue on a thin membrane over these surfaces. Is there anything else I can try first? (part is still being printed, hence the infill patter) submitted by /u/ominaex25 [link] [comments]”
“I’m using PVA as supports for my print for the first time and they came out looking super wonky. Is this how they’re supposed to look or did I do something? I’m using a Bambu lab P1S with the AMS system submitted by /u/FallenF00L [link] [comments]”
“Trying to print PLA-CF on my Centauri Carbon (1) and it won't print. Filament is dried, bed is clean and I run auto level. It won't stick. I notice the purge line it does on the edge of the bed isn't a solid line it's wavy if that makes sense. Using Elegoo slicer with the Elegoo PLA-CF profile as that is the filament I'm using. I'm just trying to print a pistol mount. submitted by /u/Personal-Safe3560 [link] [comments]”
“I have a big rep studio, it uses 0.6mm nozzle and 2.85 filament, using klipper and a bigtree Octoprint v1.1 board, The LAYERS refuse to weld together, installed a leveling z sensor (so The bed is leveled), i did hotend swap, nozzle swap, ESteps calibration, orcaslicer settings reset, checked The firmware settings, tried other filament, flow ratio is 0,98 for pla , tried other stls, it was printing fine and now it isnt. Need serius help, Im out of options here submitted by /u/Srcasimi”
“EDIT: Looking more at these pics of the temp tower, I turned it down to 245c and started to print the retraction test again and it's working with far less stringing. I'll start re-running the earlier tests at 245 and see how things change. I'm fairly new to 3D printing and was struggling with some Orca Slicer calibration tests (the ones at https://www.orcaslicer.com/wiki/guides/calibration_guide.html in the order the recommend) using a new 0.2mm hotend with PETG on an Elegoo Centauri”
“So. I’m trying to print with a New PETG filament, it’s from a local Norwegian company, and has good reviews from other users, but it is misbehaving a bit. I have not had similar issues with other PETG filament’s I have used earlier. Any tips on how I can fix this to make it smoother. I print on a P1S Edit to add: The specifications on the filament: Nozzle temp: 240-250 °C Bed temp: 70-75°C Print speed: 30-100 mm/s Fan: 40-70% Layer height: over 0.05mm recommended I use: Nozzle temp: 245°C Bed te”
“The title says it all really. Can someone please tell me how I'm supposed to print a prime tower with my print that won't end up shitting the bed and breaking away because the PETG doesn't stick properly to the PLA in the tower? submitted by /u/SnackbarBeastie [link] [comments]”
“Came home to this, stopped the print, and scanned the QR code, this is the 3rd 20+hr print I have done in a row (shutting it off and on again between prints) so I can imagine my nozzle has been working a tad hard lately. Here is what I know: This is a Bambu labs A1 combo (I have the 4x spool holder) I run a 0.2mm nozzle that sits at 220°C during operation My plate sits at 65°C during operation Both of these temperatures are what the printer automatically sets it as. I am in dry Calgary AB, Canad”
“Wasn't planning to paint it. There's a mating part that goes over it, attached magnetically. Maybe I'll try sanding and wood filler to see what it looks like.”
“So I'm right. Okay. Not going to reprint because it's a day and a half print 😑 thanks! Thin membrane that fits over is easy, just won't have the pattern 🫤”
“The best way is to reprint it. The second best way is to print a part that fits over all of it. So back into the cad you go. Or just reprint it.”
“I'd say to look into what people have been doing for garden concrete casting. I see people doing this now and then... Ah, quick search turned up the first one I had remembered for this context: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1l5zxx6/3d_printed_a_mold_for_concrete_statues/”
“I recently did this for a cat. Strongly recommend ASA filled with sand for weight. Concrete is not bad material choice either, but actually plastic lasts longer and is much cheaper. ASA is UV and heat resistant.”