3D printers need more support structures for complex models
14 posts in the last 60 days, all from r/3Dprinting.
“TL;DR - We make very detailed, bumpy models and I'm tired of tweezering supports. What else can I try? We recently got a 3D printer for our structural biology lab, and we've been using it to make protein models. These tend to be very bumpy, have lots of overhangs, and have a ton…”
“I have the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro and I'm trying to print with PETG but every time I try and get the support interface layer off its almost impossible. I don't have AMS unfortunately to print a PLA interface. I've been trying for days please help. I print at 60mm/s”
“I'm trying to print a PETG piece, for the first time i wanted to try using PLA as support interface since there is just one filament chanhge. The interface part works perfectly but it creates a problem: at the layer where there is the filament change the PETG cools off too much…”
Several posts describe issues with 3D printer supports failing during printing, requiring reprints and manual intervention. One user specifically mentions a failed support on a print, while another details Orca looping behavior related to rivet lines needing extra support.
SOURCES (23)
“New to 3D printing in general, running an A1 Mini, no AMS, PLA and PLA+. Been trying to run some 0.2mm nozzle tabletop minis for myself and some high-res toys/figurines for kids and running into a common failure modes for either/both: If a support or…”
“Hi, I’m still fairly new to 3D printing, so I’m not sure if I’m missing something obvious here. Printer: Snapmaker U1 Slicer: OrcaSlicer Material: PLA Layer height: 0.2 mm Z-hop: 0.4 mm Supports: organic/tree I’m printing a multi-color skull on a pedestal. The first two prints got through this area without problems. After that I made the central column between the pedestal and skull much thicker, because the original one was too fragile. Since then, the same large outer tree support gets knocked”
“I have a project that I am printing that needs supports. Imagine a cheese wedge shaped product, with a sliding lid on top. Because it's on an angle I am printing it at -5.17 degrees which makes the top lid flat and print cleaner but now the bottom of the wedge has a big support supporting the flat bottom and it is an absolute bitch to remove. Does anyone have any suggestions for settings I can change that would help make the supports easier to remove ? I was thinking of changing the interfac”
“Making a power armour helmet, I’m wanting to have the tubes clear to possibly add ventilation and supports may prevent that+add unnecessary print time submitted by /u/commentedwax [link] [comments]”
“I recently got an X2D and have it set up to use PLA support material on PETG prints. My question is about printing items with support on the baseplate only, or on the model itself. Will the PLA support material that originates on the PETG model adhere enough to function or should I strictly use baseplate only supports (tree)? submitted by /u/Ok-Couple2656 [link] [comments]”
Hello, I need to print PETG design on a PLA raft, but for some reason this doesnt work at all on my P2S. PLA support interfaces worked perfectly in the past, tho.…
“TL;DR - We make very detailed, bumpy models and I'm tired of tweezering supports. What else can I try? We recently got a 3D printer for our structural biology lab, and we've been using it to make protein models. These tend to be very bumpy, have lots of overhangs, and have a ton of pores/tunnels that supports love worming their way through. Naturally support removal and cleanup is a disaster that can take 5+ hours per model to make them presentable enough to display. I'm still pretty”
“I’ve been trying to bring this articulated sea monster thing for my son, for three days. The printer keeps knocking into the parts, and kicking them off of the bed. I’ve not printed these kinds of toys before. I slowed the print down from a 6 hour print time to over 8. I turned on z-hop as well. Still, I’m getting 30min to 2 hours in, and bam, fail. At first, the bed was most certainly not level. I fixed that and thought I was home free. But no. Pic 1 was the better of the 8 tries, after I slowe”
“Every time I print with supports, they completely fuse to the overhangs and ruin the model when I try to remove them (see photo). What I’ve already tried (with zero luck): Support Z-Distance: Increased all the way to 0.275mm. Temperatures: Lowered hotend temps to prevent melting/sagging. My Setup: Printer: Bambu P1S Slicer: Bambu studio Filament: PLA, happens with all brands Temps (Nozzle): tried 220,210,200 Layer Height: happens with all Has anyone dealt with supports fusing even with a massive”
“Hi, I am pretty new to 3D printing. I got myself the Snapmaker U1, its great most of the time, but today the Orcaslicer started doing weird things - this tower is 0,5 kg of material compared to 200g for other elements. What the hell, is there some setting that could have done this? submitted by /u/dehumanizerpl [link] [comments]”
“I've always tried to strive to design 3D printed parts that don't require support material. But sometimes there's something ornate and complex that I'd like to print for more aesthetic purposes - like this very cool fish sculpture from ComicsArt . This trick won't always work, but if the part is symmetrical, it's often possible to split it along a central plane, print flat on the plate, and re-combine the two sides using either glue (which I've always hated working wi”
“I have the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro and I'm trying to print with PETG but every time I try and get the support interface layer off its almost impossible. I don't have AMS unfortunately to print a PLA interface. I've been trying for days please help. I print at 60mm/s submitted by /u/Sure-Platypus-9578 [link] [comments]”
“https://preview.redd.it/27znhr51eykh1.png?width=1157&format=png&auto=webp&s=e8c26f42460611fdf55ddacde4593397242fe77b I'm using Orca slicer 2.3.0. submitted by /u/MrUltraOnReddit [link] [comments]”
“Any advice on printing downward pointy features like the teeth shown here? They keep breaking from the support after a few layers, leaving a mess. I am making the support enforcers larger but wonder if there is a more elegant solution or some setting that can help with this. The largest teeth are about 4 mm in diameter at the gums. Material is PLA. Printer is Core One. Grey boxes are support enforcers. These features are about 17 cm above the build place, so the organic support is subject to som”
“I'm trying to print a PETG piece, for the first time i wanted to try using PLA as support interface since there is just one filament chanhge. The interface part works perfectly but it creates a problem: at the layer where there is the filament change the PETG cools off too much and when the print resumes in PETG it does not sick well, the layer adesion is just non existent where the print "pauses" to change filament. Is there a workaround other than having 2 toolheads? I'm on a”
“https://preview.redd.it/a6om5tyt3ajh1.png?width=1439&format=png&auto=webp&s=8edd396a58c6b2089cce80ec32dd73f410e5cc98 Using the Orca/FlashForge slicer. I want to get one massive PETG surface instead of these small spots. submitted by /u/KillerBullet [link] [comments]”
“Im using a ender 3v2, printing brand new dry PLA at 215°c, at 50mm/s, I would normally use Cura but im trying to change to Orca cuz it has multiple features im interested in, I dialed in most settings in the new software but I simply cant print anything since after a few layers i run into serious underextrusion issues, what could be causing this? Things i already tried: I live in Brazil and it is quite hot in my region thought it could be heat creep, I reduced temperatures to the bare minimums o”
“I printed a small sphere/ball with PETG. To print the bottom part, I added support. For the support interface, I used the "BambuLab's Support for PLA/PETG," and for the support base, I used the same PETG that the sphere was printed in. The issue I encountered was that at the bottom of the sphere, the interface was so slim (see image 2) that I wasn't able to get it off cleanly, and in the process of removing the support material, I substantially damaged the print. I ended up usi”
“I've been printing these car stands, which I generate from a size-comparison tool I've got in beta — you pick the cars you want to compare by size, and it gives you context on shape, volume, etc. Since I already had the models, I figured I'd throw in the option to download the 3mf with whatever's on screen. I've got around 250 cars in there (decimated meshes, not artistic low-poly even though it looks like it), the most popular ones in Spain for now; I'll keep adding more”
“I am an INDX founder (and yes, annoyed by the nozzles. But I only print abrasives every few months so it's fine for me as of now, I can enjoy what I have) and deciced to try out one of the reasons why I was excited to get a multi toolhead system: Using PLA on PETG as support interface. I decided to put my model in a pretty stresstesty orientarion, resulting in support interface layers on every single toolchange. I also used red PLA as the support interface, so I could easily see if everythin”
“My Neptune 4 max cannot print a base layer! I've tried Elegoo slicer & now Orca slicer ( did best on orca slicer ). I've cleaned the nozzle slowed down printing for the base layer tried rafting. Not to mention leveled it repeatedly. E mailing with elegoo but yhe just want video after video. It has a new motherboard in it. Got 2 prints and now back to nothing but problems. Looking for help submitted by /u/nathanjw333 [link] [comments]”
“https://preview.redd.it/k1cte3zlf1gh1.png?width=633&format=png&auto=webp&s=a7883750575f0e4b4c92ce88c4eaa3021eb9013a https://preview.redd.it/30czzcuof1gh1.png?width=652&format=png&auto=webp&s=a19b80731337f76408a3348bac54f682691211cb Hello, I am trying to print on object with rivet lines on it, and it works, but only where the travel lines (blue) are not doing the looping behavior seen on the lower half of the model. Is there a way to force it to handle them linearly line i”