Electricians Battling Legacy Systems

“Nothing beats good old copper and tin! The last time I did this was 20 years ago. In the meantime, I've soldered tons of tiny electronic components! submitted by /u/_moon_cactus_ [link] [comments]”

“Trying to rewire my Columbia zero turn. Bolts holding the positive wire on the stud were extremely corroded. I’m assuming the stud shouldn’t move like this? Almost feels like it’s on a spring. submitted by /u/Kraetor92 [link] [comments]”

“Hey Sparkies. I'm tasked with an unusual control spec, I can't seem to figure out how to make it work. I'm controlling 4 347v exterior lighting circuits with a 347v photocell and need to achieve the following functionality: - Hand/Off/Auto control - Lights are on all the time, photocell de-energizes them during daytime hours so that if the photocell fails the lights will remain on. I've tried to draw up schematics with normally closed contactors and a photocell controlled relay b”

“Only time I saw corrosion like that was at an oil field pump control that was exposed to traces of H2S. Could also be moisture corrosion, which is common even in temperature and humidity controlled environments. It's not like it's hermetically sealed, eh? If there's batteries of some kind (UPS, emergency lights, etc.) it could be from them outgassing. Copper attracts a lot of corrosive gasses naturally. As for the bent pins, putting in an RJ45 crooked or angling it so it puts pressur”

“On a wall, probably a rj11. On a switch.... you need to question the environment where it is...”

“It is an electrical ground strap and the copper or galvanized pipes are providing electrical ground. Strongly suggests legacy electrical wiring in then property and the lack of a grounded electrical system. You need an electrician to assess the electric wiring state. The problem with this is that you need to modernize the electrics before you can modernize the plumbing. Worst case scenario is the plumbing is providing grounding and if you replace sections with a modern system such as PEX, you wo”

“Typical setup around here (SC): meter can bonded, 3 wire SEU into the panel, grounds and neutrals on the same bar. The 2020 NEC added the outdoor emergency disconnect (230.85). Once that's your service disconnect, the inside panel is a sub, so you need 4 wires and separated neutrals like any other subpanel. Code aside, if you add a meter/main combo with breakers and leave the existing 3 wire going into the house, what's the actual physical risk? It's the same bonded 3 wire run it was”

“Code says brass is an acceptable dielectric, though actual dielectric’s are preferred https://preview.redd.it/bohfjgo51yph1.jpeg?width=1290&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=dd6c8452ed7545d04130206c74ae4d998de1336a”

“So if a whole 5door case is out and power output going to first termination, what would be the best way to locate all the bad antisweats? Or what is a better solution? submitted by /u/harrypooper3 [link] [comments]”

“I just wanna understand the reason why this GFCI breaker is stranded copper instead of solid solid is it to save money on production costs? submitted by /u/Far_Forever_2665 [link] [comments]”

“Once it's disconnected from the panel, it's inactive and no longer an issue. You can mostly just leave it in place. It's re-powering the stuff it was powering that's gonna be a destructive process.”

“2nd year apprentice who’s currently bored and at his parents house. I popped the dead front off just to peek inside of panel and I noticed the ground only on one side of panel are starting to oxidize. Any idea what can be causing this issue and if it’s even an issue? Appreciate the comments in advance. submitted by /u/414Forward [link] [comments]”

“There is insulation. Read what you’re replying to! “… concentric neutral wrapped around the insulated live conductor.” The wires wrapped around the outside are a neutral. Then there is a layer of insulation, and then the live conductor. The neutral is kept at ground potential, 0V. If it wasn’t touching earth constantly, it could build a fraction of the internal cable’s voltage. It’s probably carrying a single phase of a three-phase distribution and at some point goes into a 30:1 transformer. The”

“It’s an 10awg wire with a crimp connection inside the harding shell. submitted by /u/Salty_Amphibian4287 [link] [comments]”

“Homeowner just bought a new house and discovered that there has been a leaking kitchen sink that has severely corroded the neutral and ground lug on their electrical panel. It appears to be localized to just the neutral and ground lug at the top. No issue with the hot lugs or the rest of the busbar underneath. The sink problem has been fixed and everything is dry so theoretically the corrosion won't get worse. How do you assess the risk in this situation? Is there a way to test the extent of”

“Teal painted copper. Terrible install instructions. They also sent out a tech to install the support cables. submitted by /u/Vihtic [link] [comments]”

“I'll copy and paste my reply to a different comment: Lots of guys have trusted the surge protectors for years without issue. My problem, especially with more and more complicated electronics--is the convenience worth that one time it fails and you fry a bunch of modules? If it fails, do you think Dent Fix is gonna pay to replace thousands of dollars worth of stuff? How do you know when the surge protector has reached the end of its life? I just disconnect the batteries.”

“Has anybody seen these set themselves on fire when wet or was this an installation issue? (I can't vouch for the install, it wasn't our crew). submitted by /u/ColdFusion94 [link] [comments]”

“Is that progress? It almost looks like aluminum with a built in propress fitting ? It looks like there's a seal in there? Try to Google lens or AI it and see if it recognizes it and then you can find a manual”

“Hey Guys! What's the best solder wire you can get, what do you use? submitted by /u/Normal_Sweet_3810 [link] [comments]”

“Had to do a tight whip on this SER cable and looking for ideas to get a strap on it. Standoff? Strut? What do you guys think? I don’t do a ton of residential. Thanks submitted by /u/brhen856 [link] [comments]”

“I have never seen a panel like this before. Can anyone provide some additional information on it? submitted by /u/PricklyPear85 [link] [comments]”

“I suspect the white insulation is asbestos containing and am afraid to mess with it. My plan would be to solder on a little cap. I’m open to other options as well. I submitted by /u/Designer_Ad_2023 [link] [comments]”

“How on earth did these cables withstand such voltage? submitted by /u/OlOS_linux [link] [comments]”

“Because it's basically just stupid to not use a shielded coupling in this day and age and just because Canada hasn't caught up to the idea doesn't mean the general advice shouldn't be international plumbing code. A lot of the codes that aren't international plumbing code wind up adopting but international plumbing code adopts anyway so don't be surprised if in the future shield a couplings are required in most scenarios in Canada It's not like you know the shielded co”

“Anyone know where I can find an aluminum rated combo switch single pole for aluminum wiring ? Can only fine single pole and 3 ways . Have it connected with a copper only switch . submitted by /u/Beginning_Client_886 [link] [comments]”

“Lololol. Where is this even sold? When I took the coverplate off I was dyin 🤣🤣🤣. This was their solution to failing co for painted receptacles. Receptacle veneer baby. Worked too. submitted by /u/Key-Appointment783 [link] [comments]”

“They've done everything else pretty decently and by the book. But I've told them I don't feel like it's smart or safe to install interior rated brown from ruse EMT that's been getting rained on for 3 years. They won't budge. submitted by /u/Capital-Bedroom4651 [link] [comments]”

“We just had to have an electrician pull new wires and have a new water heater put it in for this. The old one wasn't grounded at all and a cracked heating element allowed it to leak voltage into the tank.”

“Which was usually okay decades ago. In Ontario it's still a common practice in old homes. But continuity is broken all the time now, because we'll cut out pipe and replace with PEX. This confounds some homeowners and sparkies because the ground is still continuous when there's water in the pipe, and not everything is connected on ground (it's usually an induced current at these volts). So it's hard to nail down when the problem is random and intermitten, eg dependent on if so”

I’ve seen this when the house service neutral is deteriorating.

“Well sort of. But those pipes should be bonded with the panel and the service ground. It’s like that because there is something grounded to it but that isn’t bonded properly. The case I have come across most often is grounds and neutrals not separated in a sub panel. Dairymen tend to think that they are electricians and they are not and that makes big messes.”

“I can’t get my cutler ch 60 amp breaker to lock in. It seems like the contacts on the panel are different sizes. Am I missing something obvious here? submitted by /u/Freelancefarmer [link] [comments]”

“My question: is there a solderless connector that would solve this problem? I know why we don't like sharkbites and where they are okay and not. I don't need that story again. I would like to replace this sharkbite, but I get why it was attempted. It's a tight space and I'm struggling with soldering well in the access hole. This is a sillcock connection, and the current sharkbite leaves the sillcock upside down when fully threaded. It's in a freeze climate so the length of th”

“So my old capacitor is rusty, and the label is shot, but here’s a side profile picture of the motor. Would anybody be able to give me a link or I could even go to Home Depot if they sell them? submitted by /u/Correct_Working5408 [link] [comments]”

“The customer claims the lights flicker sometimes. It appears the corroded neutral is the culprit, although it happens intermittently. submitted by /u/hanklazard [link] [comments]”

“Can anybody help out with identifying the model of this transformer? More specifically, I’m trying to source finger safe cover guards for it. TIA submitted by /u/egdethgiarts [link] [comments]”

“I’m actually really disappointed with this panel.. I couldn’t get the neutral sub feed to stay butted up against the wall of panel 1, they wouldn’t buy wire tags so I had to use elec tape and a thin sharpie to label my branch circuits. I was given the wrong pull plan which made me now have three spare wires in there not doing anything. I was dumb and knocked out the nipple too low on the top side so I had to do a lame ass “U” with all my wires to keep them at the top. My first two neutrals on th”

“Use surface shield/fluid film to coat the area it'll keep it from rusting further”

“Been a service tech for 5 years have never seen these caps until now anyone know anything? I imagine there’s a key for them. submitted by /u/troncarter42 [link] [comments]”

“Hello everyone, I would like to share a technical solution that I developed and brought to industrial production over the past few years for creating grounding points on metal structures. After seeing too many electrical ground connections made on painted surfaces or on poorly prepared contact areas, the initial idea was to find an alternative that would provide a reliable metal-to-metal electrical contact every time. The concept is based on a conductive threaded insert that is mechanically inst”

“Hello everyone, I would like to share a technical solution that I developed and brought to industrial production over the past few years for creating grounding points on metal structures. After seeing too many electrical ground connections made on painted surfaces or on poorly prepared contact areas, the initial idea was to find an alternative that would provide a reliable metal-to-metal electrical contact every time. The concept is based on a conductive threaded insert that is mechanically inst”

“Shielded cabling can help, but it's not a magical solution against something so powerful. GROUNDED shielded cabling. Which, from what I've seen, isn't guaranteed to have been done.”

“Running a new range circuit and spotted a first for me. We did install the proper CU/AL wire nut since it was just a red one. Been like that at least 20 years with no problems. submitted by /u/BlitzBiker2001 [link] [comments]”

“To give some context before everyone blames me I’m pretty new in the few on a couple months of experience. I quickly found myself a maintenance position where I was trained for two months and then I was sent out to just start doing maintenance as a junior apprentice, typically on these maintenance is we check the capacitor often while it’s running and do the formula to get the measurement to see if it’s in the range but sometimes when I go to check some capacitors and I put my prongs from common”

“I’m rewiring an old house from knob and tube to romex. the insulation has this metallic stuff in it. Is this going to kill me? i am wearing a mask submitted by /u/Proof-Inspection-292 [link] [comments]”

“I thought I’d share this relic. The panel and breakers are from Zinsco (1943-1973). A quick look up says they originally started in 1928 and stopped all production in 1981. Here’s a copy-paste from Wiki: Zinsco electrical panels were widely manufactured from the 1950s to the 1970s and were celebrated for their compact, modular designs and "Magnatrip" breakers. However, the brand was eventually discontinued after severe design flaws were discovered that could cause breakers to fuse to t”

“Opened a panel today, couldn't make sense of it even with my arkpro on it. Neutrals on ground bars, double tapped breakers, loose romex behind drywall. Homeowner said his uncle did some work. 3 hours later I got it sorted though and it looked beautiful, felt pretty proud of that one ngl submitted by /u/East_Mobile6806 [link] [comments]”

“I have around 500 pounds of 250 - 600 mcm wire would it be worth it to strip or just scrap as is? submitted by /u/Holiday_Hedgehog5287 [link] [comments]”

“Saw this the other day and thought about pull outs and how they would switch it off back in the day? What was protection like back in the day? submitted by /u/Intelligent-Night149 [link] [comments]”

“Aside from it looking like an absolute cluster… you have to hold the door the entire time you’re working in it. Sigh. submitted by /u/Misschikki777 [link] [comments]”

“Built my first control panel and it a great learning experience. Turns out the Minotaur safety relays are slightly different for e-stops and guard switches and I had wired them into the wrong ones but luckily they are just 4 seperate plugs into both of them so was able to switch them around. Drawings also didn’t show a bridge between 2 terminals that google said needed to be there but after that it worked. Wiring looked a bit neater before I had to add some extra terminals down the bottom left a”

“Found lots of stuff like this in the building we re wired if you look closely aluminum wires too. submitted by /u/Square_Wall4816 [link] [comments]”

“Homeboy just looked at it and said “but how is it connected??” Idk bro how about you take the damn deadfront off and look at the busing submitted by /u/yuhkih [link] [comments]”

“Found this while doing a panel swap today. 200A 480v feeders going into an old Sylvania fused disconnect. Glad we caught it before the fireworks! submitted by /u/HikeLikeMike61 [link] [comments]”

“How do you guys seal Teck into the breaker panel directly? I like using a junction box and then run thnn into breaker. I mean I guess this works submitted by /u/heezus29 [link] [comments]”

“Who installs a union and then slathers it in so much glue that u can't unscrew it? It has now been rendered completely useless. Thanks for nothing. submitted by /u/Creepy_Creg [link] [comments]”

“Thank you everyone for the feedback. Two or three people mentioned something I had completely missed, the bonding. Well the ground was bonded to the neutral on the disconnect (main) NOTE : this was done be the original electrician and not me. The screw was also completely loose. In addition to that, the ground wire has been cutoff from the ground rod. I have performed all repairs, replaced with a new wire and bonded the sub panel with a #6 green wire. submitted by /u/LudwigOrmarr [li”

“Factory installed wires. I thought robots were doing this or some shit? This is completely unacceptable. I had to rerun the factory wire (technically breaking the UL listing) back to the meter base termination. It gets worse, when I went to loosen the lug of the conductor in question it felt like it was a max of 60” lbs. It was also only 3/4s of the way in the lug on the meter side and pulled tight as humanly fucking possible to the point that the metal was cutting into the insulation. Now, I un”