LVP Stair Noses Peel Off and Subfloors Come Out Uneven
17 posts in the last 90 days, all from r/Flooring.
“Hello everyone. Coming at you for opinions and help after a nightmare flooring job. We ripped out carpet to replace with LVP. It was problem after problem over the course of 6 days with this company (yes, licensed company with good reviews), from service to the actual work…”
“We were very happy with our new LVP floor installation until he put in these horrible thresholds. The first one, LVP to hardwood, is much too high and doesn't match the wood. There is almost a half-inch drop. Is it really impossible to taper the drop without going that high…”
“We recently had LVP installed on our stairs. My husband bought the materials, and after looking them up later, I realized the stair noses we purchased are overlapping stair noses, so I understand they’re not supposed to be flush. I don’t really love the look, but that’s a…”
Homeowners are experiencing issues with flooring installations, including incorrect material choices, uneven surfaces requiring costly fixes, difficulty sourcing discontinued products, and subpar workmanship leading to peeling or detachment. This creates frustration, unexpected expenses, and project delays for homeowners.
SOURCES (35)
“Currently in a dispute with the installer as I don’t believe these have been installed correctly. All of the stair noses (except for the one at the top of the landing which seems to be done as an overlap) are slightly sagging/bending downwards and feel…”
“We paid a company to replace carpets on stairs with laminate. The first round the nosing completely fell off (very unsafe), one of the stairs is completely slanted and the bottom one has some funky looking cuts (first image). The creaking is pretty bad too. The installer came back and said the first guy didn’t buff the bottom of the nosing causing these issues. He assured that they’re using the best glue. He then reinstalled the nosing. It feels a bit sturdier now, but there’s still pretty signi”
“Anyone that has installed the pictured type of overlap stair nose could you share picture(s). I’m curious how the part that goes against the riser looks. Is the overlap noticeable? To do the flush type of stair nosing is looking like it would cost me an extra $600, so trying to decide. TIA! submitted by /u/Disastrous-Access226 [link] [comments]”
“Hello everyone. Coming at you for opinions and help after a nightmare flooring job. We ripped out carpet to replace with LVP. It was problem after problem over the course of 6 days with this company (yes, licensed company with good reviews), from service to the actual work. Every new promise was empty words and led to the next disappointment. On the final day, coming home to these stairs was the straw that broke the camel’s back. We fired them as we didn’t trust their word or their work anymore.”
“I went with Mohawk PureTech and new baseboards with a local flooring company that had done a great tile install for our neighbors. Caulking: Closet doors were removed a year ago, but they “left room for the doors” and instead just filled it with caulk. Also random planks got caulked around the edges but others didn’t. Transitions: I took the painters tape off 5 days later like they told me to. Should they redo the schluter? It's between my living room and front entrance. Edges chipped: Looks”
“I am looking to get LVP installed and the company that is well recommended in the area and that we are leaning towards said they can get stair treads with the pre-made noses on them or they can make the noses themselves by heating and forming them out of regular planks I was leaning towards prefab ones so they are consistent and I feel like they’d be stronger. The hold up is the stair landing made at a 45 makes the prefab ones not work he said. I guess the prefab stair noses don’t come that wide”
“I am reflooring my stairs and second floor with LVP flooring. While trying to install the stair nose and the perpendicular plank, I am experiencing gaping. This is my second attempt. How should I proceed? submitted by /u/Writing-Current [link] [comments]”
“First time installing vinyl flooring—I'm using Select Surfaces from Sam's Club. I need to install the stair nose they provided, but as you can see in the photo, the edge of the vinyl will show, and there will also be a small gap on the other side of the stair nose. Is there any way to fix this? submitted by /u/Concurso305 [link] [comments]”
“This is my first time laying LVP and I need some help with the edges. Is it possible to use flush stair nose along the top edges (green & blue)? I'm laying the boards along the red lines. I can see it snap along the blue edge, but could use some help with the green sides. Any ideas? Thanks in advance! submitted by /u/beingmyse1f [link] [comments]”
“We were very happy with our new LVP floor installation until he put in these horrible thresholds. The first one, LVP to hardwood, is much too high and doesn't match the wood. There is almost a half-inch drop. Is it really impossible to taper the drop without going that high above the hardwood floor? One would normally step over a threshold, but the one at the top of the stairs is unavoidable. When going up or down, your foot goes right on it. The stairs are being refinished. I'm looking”
“What are my options for a closet door now that I messed up. Are barn doors really the only option I have? If I wanted a regular sliding closet door I would have to cut out the molding going into the closet and redo it but after 2 months of renovating I’m burnt out and don’t want to. submitted by /u/CraftAgreeable2274 [link] [comments]”
“We recently had LVP installed on our stairs. My husband bought the materials, and after looking them up later, I realized the stair noses we purchased are overlapping stair noses, so I understand they’re not supposed to be flush. I don’t really love the look, but that’s a separate issue. My concern is the installation. The first time they were installed, several of the stair noses literally came apart the same day. The owner of the flooring company was very nice and came back out to fix them. I”
“Getting ready to put in new engineered hardwood floors. The Plywood is sitting on top of a concrete slab and it was added to raise the floor and match the height of the rest of the house. The contractor mentioned that the floor wasn’t level on consultation day and he mentioned that he will use self level to get everything sorted before gluing the hardwood on. Since then we decided to raise the floor and he said he doesn’t need to put in self level anymore if we are putting plywood on the slab. T”
“I am looking into removing carpet and replacing it with wood or vinyl flooring. I have 2 dogs and a toddler, so I am guessing vinyl would be a better choice, but I am open to other suggestions. Just curious what people have perceived with the different materials. submitted by /u/ants_taste_great [link] [comments]”
“My floorers are in the process of installing some engineered hardwood floors (European oak). They are part way through. There are a few planks that appear to be darker than the others. Is this acceptable/expected? Thanks so much! I never really paid any attention to floors until now! submitted by /u/Few-Ad9620 [link] [comments]”
“I recently had water damage and need to replace approximately 250 sq. ft. of existing laminate flooring. I’m trying to avoid replacing the entire connected area, but I haven’t been able to find the original flooring in stock. The product appears to be: TrafficMaster / Home Decorators Collection Distressed Brown Hickory Model: 34074SQ Home Depot Internet #: [ 204068076 ](tel:204068076) UPC: 9006936516371 Approximately 12 mm thick × 6¼ inches wide × 50¾ inches long Dark hand-scraped hickory appear”
“I am looking for about 100 sq feet of the 6" Hallmark Silverado Tobacco Birch. I need it for a repair project. I believe this was discontinued in 2022. Does anyone have any leads on where I could find this? Or is there an amazing match! I am looking for 6" wide planks but they aren't very accessible. https://preview.redd.it/1i85xer7dneh1.png?width=540&format=png&auto=webp&s=dfd70cf2c4e2ef3398fba46132f0b66d25c9b183 submitted by /u/Opening_Swing_6214 [link] &#”
“I'm pretty sure those aren't supposed to overlap. The end should be sitting on the groove giving it an almost flush look. I don't even think they make this type of overlap for lvp anymore. 🤔”
“Imagine trying to carry something heavy down these stairs, having one of these fall off and maybe dying.”
“In my opinion this is not a safe installation. Those noses need to be laying flat on the tread of the stair. If reinstalled this way, those noses will fail and risk injuring someone. You can purchase new noses that will clip into the existing planks if they are all cut the same way, or fill the gap with thin pieces of planks.”
“No offense but these types of stair noses look like total shit. I spent a lot of money taking out flipper-tier overlapping stair noses and replacing with a full LVP tread. Made the world of a difference.”
“They shouldn't be coming off when installed correctly. Grab some tubes of Roberts Nose Bond glue. That's what we use and never have a problem”
“I do not recommend this type of vinyl installation on stairs. It is unsafe, and after about a year of use, the risk of accidents becomes significant.”
“I believe the bullnose is supposed to be layers onto another LVP plank and now bare wood. I personally install it this way and have no issue. You should : have the installer sand down the old glue to give the new glue a good binding surface. Place new lvp section all the way to the edge of the stair (best to glue this down as well). Then bond the tread to the smaller lvp piece. I used loctite PL and i have no adhesion issues at all. Make sure to not walk ok them for several hours while adhesive”
“Could use construction adhesive and throw 2 finish nails into each end. Can't say its right, or wouldn't fail down the road, but its better than reattaching it as is.”
“No to barn doors. You don’t have the clearance on the right side. Cut the molding if you really want sliding doors or go with double bifold doors to maximize the opening.”
“Easy fix, take out the front and both inside and outside short wall pieces, use the front piece for fill and cut the short walls back and put returns on them. A return is basically an outside cut that ENDS at the EDGE of the wall then cut a small sliver on the 45 to fill the void, like a little cap https://preview.redd.it/r0cqw6f3poeh1.jpeg?width=1155&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=56887e7da90c52fe96c2e1d74a7054f119026b1a”
“Pull the six pieces of base around the opening. Hang the door you want. Re-cut the 4 that go to the opening. You only lose the 4.5" pieces in the opening.”
“https://preview.redd.it/1gjvsi75ioeh1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=98ed3a84f643501206a3d76db9aa85efdaadb930”
“Take a break and give yourself time to reset, then redo it. Relatively simple fix, and I'd rather redo it than find a workaround that isn't my top choice. It's your house, and you have to live with it every day. Not the answer you're looking for, I'm sure, but maybe others will have suggestions that work better for you.”