3D printer users struggle with PETG filament

submitted by /u/imaboss90 [link] [comments]

“New to 3D printing. I've done some testing with PLA, PETG, and ASA on an X2D. PLA prints great. PETG is okay, but it doesn't offer the same level of detail, while ASA seems to produce results very similar to PLA. In terms of durability, PLA and PETG seem to break under roughly the same amount of force. PETG has a little more give, but the force required to break it (with an M5 bolt) seems to be about the same. ASA, on the other hand, seems much stronger. It also doesn't help that PET”

“If i dry a a roll of petg for 8 hours will it actually damage it since it doesnt rotate? Or will i be fine submitted by /u/HaremK1NGG_ [link] [comments]”

I recently purchased what I thought was supposed to be a solid PETG from Sunlu. This is in their matte filament line, and it ended up being somewhat translucent and not really…

“Hey! I want to print an armor piece from metallic PETG. I don't want to buy a fresh PLA roll for that and also i heard that PETG is much easier to post process. I don't have a tonn of issues people are having with their PETG prints (like stringing and poor layer adhesion). It requires a lot more supports tho. So is it worth it? submitted by /u/Loris_8869 [link] [comments]”

“Hi, i could use some help. Im using a k2 plus, and have nptcbeen having problems untill recently. My prints keep having these holes from over my supports when using Petg. Ive tried messing with a few different settings including slowing it down, and done a bit of googleing but nothing seems to be working. Any help would be appreciated. submitted by /u/canadiansnow038 [link] [comments]”

“I am printing these parts on my H2C using Sunlu high speed matte petg. I’m bought a .8 HF nozzle and it’s working great for 95% of the print but it has a tendency to leave “boogers” in some spots and I’m sure it has to do with my settings. Looking for some insight on what to do to try and fix these issues. submitted by /u/cyclon3 [link] [comments]”

“Hey everyone, this is my first post here 😁 I printed this Phantom-Mask from Makerworld and used PETG for that. It was my first print using that and I dried it well before. I used the settings provided by the publisher and now I am wondering where those artifacts come from. Could the problem be, that I simply used PETG with PLA settings 😅? Best regards submitted by /u/Adventurous_Run7102 [link] [comments]”

“I have an elegoo cc2 and some time ago it stopped printing petg. I played with the nozzle temp, volumetric speed, the bed adhesion is good and the filament is dry. What is it? submitted by /u/Impressive_Meal9955 [link] [comments]”

submitted by /u/TechStandpoint [link] [comments]

“Adventurer 5M Pro Petg+ (transparent and orange) failures Flashforge studio Any idea where I could be going wrong with my settings? I previously had a good print by doing 50% speed on default (which is 10,000mms acceleration) I dropped it to 3,000mms thinking this would help but still looks like I can't get a good print going? I'm from the resin print community so actual filament tuning is new to me submitted by /u/YoureNickRight [link] [comments]”

“Hi everyone, I'm new to 3D printing and I can't figure out if my current setup is giving an acceptable result or if I should keep tuning. I've been trying to profile a new filament— DeepLee Rapid PETG —on my Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro for two days now. Every time I finish a calibration routine, I still end up with prints like the test torture print attached in the photos (stringing on fine towers, sagging bridges, and loose tolerances). I initially tried troubleshooting with Claude AI, whi”

“Any guesses as to why this happened? Twice now the same exact error has occurred and there were large clumps of filament, then the stringing of a failed print. Both times the print started fine with the first couple of layers, then had this failure and the base layers were no longer on the bed. submitted by /u/ike54ato [link] [comments]”

“Does anyone have any recommendations for a build plate that sticks well to PETG without glue or mouse ears? I currently print mostly in PLA and use a BIQU Cryogrip Glacier and it sticks unbelievably well, I can print a pencil sized cylinder and it wouldn’t detach, but it also releases very easily once the bed cools down. Warping on large prints is also non-existent. So I’m looking for something similar for PETG. I tried using the Glacier and orange Frostbite plates for PETG but have been getting”

“i tried new presets, different nozzles, different filament spools, cleaning my build plate, drying the filament, etc..., im printing esun petg basic on an a1 and i dont know why this keeps happening. i remember my printer working wonderfully with this filament before and now it feels like a chore even booting up my printer knowing i have to deal with this. please someone tell me how to fix it its genuinely driving me crazy im using a textured pei plate, printing at 240c nozzle and 80c plate, usi”

“I’m trying to print the command posts from the battlefront games in transparent PETG. The printing itself looks pretty good on the P2S. I used all the normal settings to print as translucently as possible. This is more a project question on what you would change to make this more effective so the light reaches the top. Is this a printing problem, an opacity problem (the material is too transparent so the ligjt escapes, should I just make it smaller or just the light isn’t strong enough? su”

“Just wondering it says its possible but none of the youtubers they gave them to highlighted this feature If so what % of bottle to what % of fresh pellets for making the filament And is this a true filament, not one like that similar to the filament you get from per-trusion vs extrusion? Basically im moving somewhere that filament is expensive and bottles might be easy to source even if they are more labor intensive submitted by /u/Massive_Series8305 [link] [comments]”

“Hey guys I'm currently trying to increase speeds of my upgraded ender 3, using elegoo rapid petg filament. Tz V6 2.0 hot end with bmg clone direct drive. I'm currently printing at 250c and 80c bed. When doing the speed test I start to hear clicking in the gears, any tips on how to increase speeds without the clicking? submitted by /u/TheEminentJunkie [link] [comments]”

“I have a Prusa C1+ with gen2 upgrades. Satin sheet, xobsidian .4 nozzle. Print settings are default Prusa .20 mm speed and default prusament petg filament settings with the exception of 240 degrees after the first layer, fan speed capped at 50%, 5 perimeters, some support changes but this has no support. What am I doing wrong here? submitted by /u/Stretch_Hairy [link] [comments]”

“Dried the filament and got the humidity under 20%. What is the issue? submitted by /u/Apprehensive_Fly_501 [link] [comments]”

“Hey guys, I started to stress test my airsoft nade and after dropping it for some time it managed to break againts the layer lines which is insane, any ideas on how I can fix this or should i buy a much more flexable filament?, printing at 260, 100-120 mm/s, Elegoo petg pro, Thought petg is shock proof and what not. EDIT: Alright, Thank you guys for the answers, I'll try TPU instead. submitted by /u/Alxndr_69 [link] [comments]”

“Having print issues with specific filaments on mk4s, prints too tight, tolerances being too tight on certain PETG but perfect on other PETG brands, pretty sure I’m just dealing with slight over extrusion. My question… I can print a flow tower for each roll, but is there a repo of all print profiles for Prusa or Bambu labs that I can import? Or maybe I need to try another slicer like orca? I know Prusa has a lot of filament presets already, but occasionally I run into missing ones, and having to”

“This is follow up to my older post https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/comments/1vwghem/max_volumetric_speed_and_flow_rate_reliable/ In the end i decided to use build in one from orcaslicer. I couldn't find stainless steel TZ 2.0 nozzle and I don't have CHT style nozzles yet so those are current results. And again this is not meant to be super scientific and just out of curiosity, maybe someone would find it interesting or useful. submitted by /u/Cytro2 [link] [comments”

“Anyway I would like some advice since I am still new to all this 3D Printing stuff I’ve got myself a Ender 3 V3-SE and upgraded it with Klipper using OrcaSlicer Filament used was SUNLU PETG fresh from the packaging (I know it has a bad reputation) Bed was leveled (total variance is .178) Offset was leveled with the Paper-Test and adjusted to PETG (+0.05mm, Filament got stuck on Nozzle with .0.03) Flow Ratio 0.95 First Layer 240 Other Layers 235 Bed Temp 75 Volumetric Speed 9 No cooling for first”

“Hi everyone, I’m printing PETG on an Ender 3 V2 and lately all my prints have been coming out with these random gaps/holes in the walls (see pictures). Current settings: Nozzle temperature: 207–215°C (i know it seems low but i've tried higher temperatures and it burns the filament, this range works well for me) Print speed: 60 mm/s Ender 3 V2 I’ve already tried: Changing the nozzle temperature Adjusting the print speed Changing the layer height Unfortunately, none of these changes made any n”

“Hi. I’ve been printing since Xmas on my (son’s) P2S and gained a decent amount of experience with PLA, Petg and ASA. Recently the wife has been asking for all sort of plants pots, wall mounted, table top, which I designed and printed (I used to 3D model for a living so the modelling side is a no brainier). Recently I bought a brown matte Petg filament from Amazon, quite well priced (£13 if I remember). A warning in the packaging pointed out to dry it for 8h before using. I had no time so I dried”

“I am starting on a large print using petg. It’s already messing up the first layer… other then slowly it down? Any other ideas? submitted by /u/linkdudesmash [link] [comments]”

“Printing on a2l. I bought a generic matte PETG from local brand that ive already used PLA and PETG, but when i tried to print the matte one just like i would regular PETG it just printer poorly. I test printed cubes, triangles, sticks etc and it printed out great but any actuall shape just doesnt work. 70% of prints at any temperature, flow rate, z offset etc just had those like grains on smooth surface? at highest temp for that filament everything is stringing but at lower these grains come out”

“I'm using the bambu p1s and i was going to print something in petg my dumb brain forgot to put the plate back on and so i think the filament went up onto the tip and made a big petg bubble it broke off the fan but the fan is also stuck in it so i cant take it off and i just don't know how to remove it is this fixable or will i need to buy a new extruder submitted by /u/Wide-Muffin-1949 [link] [comments]”

“I'm not sure what the problem is, but I keep having this same issue when trying to print with PETG. I've run pressure tests (everything looks fine), I've dried the filament, I've even printed it straight from a filament dryer. It only happens adjacent to tight turns/corners, as I don't have this issue with rounded objects. Can someone please tell me what my printers (Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro & Creator 5 Pro) are doing wrong. I haven't had this issue with any other”

“Hey guys, looking for advice with this issue. As you can see, the filament gets caught somewhere and needs a little shove to make it down to the extruder. If not assisted, it will continue to just try to feed and pull backs again til it pauses. Before dismantling the entire AMS unit, I was wondering if anyone has dealt with this issue as well. Any advice is welcome. submitted by /u/No-Grapefruit9581 [link] [comments]”

“So I have a project I’m working on for a friend, they picked out a PLA from cookiecad that they like and now I can’t get the PLA. Cookiecad also has it in TPU and PETG, I’ve never printed in either of these. I don’t need it to be anything special, I just need to be solid and print. The print is a stand. Pros and cons of each and anything I should know about printing these types of filament? I have a Bambu X2D and a Prusa Core One+ Gen 2. I can print it on either. Appreciate b the help! sub”

“So I just bought a spool of some pretty cheap PETG, and printed a benchy, and it has some pretty bad printing defects, which idk how to fix. It's also very weak, like I can easily crush this benchy in my hand, so idk if it's just bad filament, or do I need to calibrate something submitted by /u/VisualPlenty1756 [link] [comments]”

“Hi all 😊 Wanted to get your thoughts on a debate I'm having. I'm typically a PLA user but I'm starting to design and make things for areas like my garden and shed where the heat and sunlight will be on them. From what I can tell from my own Googling, everyone's new fanboy filament PCTG is basically just PETG but better. However, PCTG is offered by far less venders and the only one I can find that ships to the UK with a decent colour selection is 3D-fuel... at £35 a spool. Do I a”

“I am currently printing a 1.20m chess pawn in PETG. It's my first time printing a piece this large (and printing PETG). I bought epoxy glue to attach the parts together. (It’s not glued yet in the picture) My question is, how do I fill the slight gap between each of the parts? Something like a putty or filler, but for plastic, keeping in mind that it will be sanded, primed, spray-painted and varnished. Preferably white or transparent because the paint will be white too and I wouldn’t want th”

“Did someone try the PETG 2.0 already and can compare it to the High-Speed Matte and/or normal Sunlu PETG? How's the printing behaviour? Overall strength? Layer Adhesion? Do you like it? I'm mainly printing PETG and Jayo/Sunlu has been my go-to brand for years. Mainly because it's cheap, but i also found it to be pretty high quality (besides the pigments used). A Matte and prettier look would be nice, but mechanical properties are more important. E.g. i tried Bambu PETG HF at one poin”

“Just swapped to a .2 nozzle on my Creality v3 se what should I do to help with the bench test. I am printing it with petg from Creality submitted by /u/D00rhanreeee [link] [comments]”

“Using PETG, leaking starts at 200, just before a print starts, ruining the print before it can really begin. Any help submitted by /u/AshCrazy127 [link] [comments]”