3D printer users struggle with filament adhesion and clutch power
11 posts in the last 30 days, all from r/3Dprinting.
“Can't figure out how my stacked hype chain links can be so tightly fused with their PETG separators. does anyone know if there's something about Overture's turbo PLA that would make this happen? green is PETG. I've printed a dozen plates or so with other pla without this problem.”
“https://preview.redd.it/ry1n0xbdpcph1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&s=c6afacaa378feced31dc3dbbb3d3777ee27cfc66 flipped upside down I did a bridge test with dried petg on my snapmaker u1…”
“I am trying to print using the color mixing on my Snapmaker u1 and no matter what setting I’ve changed I keep getting one side looking yellow and the other side looking black”
Multiple 3D printing enthusiasts are experiencing issues with filament adhesion, requiring modifications to parts (adding rings) and adjustments to settings. Some also report problems with filament color consistency across different brands and types.
SOURCES (15)
“I am trying to print using the color mixing on my Snapmaker u1 and no matter what setting I’ve changed I keep getting one side looking yellow and the other side looking black submitted by /u/starfighter_3000 [link] [comments]”
“I bought 6 spools of Jayo PETG together. I have used the other 5 with no issues, but this last spool is different. The filament seems to be stuck together to varying degrees on the spool. Some places I can separate it pretty easily, others seem almost welded together. I can pull up to 1m off the spool before I hit one of these welded spots and the filament breaks. The filament that I have pulled off the spool doesn’t seem especially brittle. I dried it in a Sunlu S4 at 65c for 8 hours before try”
“got some transparent yellow inland petg+ that i'm struggling to print right on my p1s with a 0.2mm nozzle. ive been able to get half decent prints with other inland filaments by modifying generic profiles in orcaslicer but this stuff just refuses to cooperate. i dried it for 12 hours at 55c and keep it in my ams which is packed full of silica beads and always between 0-10% humidity. using bed glue as well submitted by /u/YungBandit79 [link] [comments]”
“I know it heavily depends on how you set up your printer, but could you share which particular PETG filament you think is the best, or which one is your go to? My printer is a Bambu A1. I have so far tried Bambu PETG Basic and SUNLU 2.0. I want to know if there is a better filament for a beginner. Thank you. submitted by /u/OpticalOkra [link] [comments]”
“Does anyone reading this have experience with the U1 printing PETG? I’m concerned about bed adhesion and warping since the unit isn’t enclosed. Most reviews I’ve seen only talk about PLA or ABS (which it’s not good at apparently). submitted by /u/elias4444 [link] [comments]”
“What did I do wrong? Left SUNLU PETG 2.0 Right Bambu PETG Basic I dried them in a dryer for 8–10 hours after opening the packages. I also used Bambu’s filament calibration feature before printing, and both filaments produced very clean surfaced calibration plates. I used a cool plate supertack. I then tried printing a fidget, but both filaments failed, producing a wavy surface and some layer shifts. submitted by /u/OpticalOkra [link] [comments]”
“The file I opened had PLA in it but I didn’t have gray in PLA. I used PETG HF instead. What did I do wrong? submitted by /u/DarthOtas [link] [comments]”
“Can't figure out how my stacked hype chain links can be so tightly fused with their PETG separators. does anyone know if there's something about Overture's turbo PLA that would make this happen? green is PETG. I've printed a dozen plates or so with other pla without this problem. submitted by /u/Linny45 [link] [comments]”
“I’ve been trying to print this figure for over a week now and I can’t seem to get it right. It seems like it’s failing around the same layer line. I’ve tried tool changer calibration, extrusion flow, manual and auto bed leveling, swapping orange from nozzle 1 to nozzle 4. Drying filament (even though the orange was fresh out of the box) I’m using inland pla orange, bambu pla yellow and sunlu pla black and white. Snapmaker orca slicer at .16 layer height. Not sure what else to try any help is app”
“Any ideas on why this petg filament is doing this? submitted by /u/johnn_eee [link] [comments]”
“Hi, I have some petg plugged in the hotend and I don't know how to unplug it. I tried setting it to 300 and feeding filament through it. I tried leaving it hanging and holding it with pliers while I fed a small Allen key in it but it didn't budge. anything I can do? I don't have a spare hotend. submitted by /u/spiegel32 [link] [comments]”
“Hi all, based on feedback from my previous post, I am trying to print PLA with PETG support interface (Snapmaker U1) with the end goal of printing models with smooth surfaces just like the Spiderman model below: Support interface looks horrible - help with settings : r/SnapmakerU1 However, I am struggling to get PETG to stick to the PLA support material with this test print. See photos above for my current settings - have based these settings from other peoples' recommendations and it seemed”
“https://preview.redd.it/ry1n0xbdpcph1.png?width=1536&format=png&auto=webp&s=c6afacaa378feced31dc3dbbb3d3777ee27cfc66 flipped upside down I did a bridge test with dried petg on my snapmaker u1 https://makerworld.com/en/models/1271244-bridge-calibration-test-speed-and-flow#profileId-1298056 . (I had to add a brim, otherwise the base of the bridge disconnected) With all of them, I see that the top and bottom isn't flat. Why is that? Is that something that can be fixed, or is that a”