Homeowners Hate Drywall Repair

“Wondering how I should repair this. The indent is about 1/16th inch. Hoping I can just use spackle. Also how would I match the texture? Knockdown spray? Thanks! submitted by /u/fatboipete [link] [comments]”

“Bathroom- I pulled linoleum sheet faux tile down, the cork board under that, the styrofoam under that; and the shower panel to scrape the styrofoam off that and reglue it to the drywall. When I pulled the linoleum down I took off (yanked) the towel rack. The previous owner used anchor screws to support the rack that I don’t know how to get out of the wall, so i just pushed them back in so they’re not protruding. My question is do I do anything with the holes before priming? Or do I prime over th”

“This patch it cut out of the ceiling in my garage, and I’ve already taped and patched over two others but am wondering if I should leave this accessible? End goal is to prime/paint everything and have a nice clean finished attached garage, but am not sure if there’s a reason it was cut or if I should investigate further before closing it up. My current thought is to seal everything and if needed I can add a plastic access panel down the road, but wanted to get any thoughts before I pull the trig”

“mostly water damage. all dry now, mold taken care of. Will spackle suffice or get drywall mud or joint compound or whatever it’s called. Should I apply primer before applying the mud? Is it easy to achieve knockdown texture? Some of you may have seen my previous post btw. submitted by /u/AdditionalCaptain601 [link] [comments]”

“In my experience, I don’t like the mesh kit. I have dealt with holes differently. I’d cut them into a manageable size, cut plaster board to that size, then tape, spackle and sand before painting. In your experience, how well do those mesh kits work? submitted by /u/BigTechnology4369 [link] [comments]”

“I am working on a bathroom and we removed the wallpaper but most of the wallpaper adhesive was not coming off without tearing the drywall paper. We decided to try to just skim coat over it, but I’m not sure how to get a good finish. We cleaned the wall walls and put guardz down, then skim coated over it. The finish isn’t great even after three coats. Pictures 1, 2, and 3 are the wall that we put three skim coats on. We haven’t yet sanded it, but noticed that there are the almost holes in it. Wil”

“I am working on a bathroom and we removed the wallpaper but most of the wallpaper adhesive was not coming off without tearing the drywall paper. We decided to try to just skim coat over it, but I’m not sure how to get a good finish. We cleaned the wall walls and put guardz down, then skim coated over it. The finish isn’t great even after three coats. Pictures 1, 2, and 3 are the wall that we put three skim coats on. We haven’t yet sanded it, but noticed that there are the almost holes in it. Wil”

“Just had a wall redone, 3 rounds of mudding and sanding and was getting ready to paint. There is this teeny hairline crack and i was wondering if i could just spackle and smooth it out? Or should i just paint over it and call it a day? Or is there something else i can use to spot fix this First time doing this and i just dont want to mud again lol. This is the only spot along an entire living room wall. submitted by /u/clumsyalex [link] [comments]”

“Hey yall, this wall is about to become a bedroom wall, and it will be sharing said wall with another tenants washer and dryer room. I’m worried about sound, as this wall isn’t super sound proof. I will of course be drywalling up the old doorway, but I read online somewhere about how adding an extra layer of drywall, and using “green glue” spread around the entire backside of that second sheet of drywall can reduce noise. Would this actually help? (For context I own this house and will be living”

“I just had my ceiling reskimmed and retextured (knockdown) because of a bad patch job. The painter came a week later. Only after the painter was done did I see numerous pinholes. The pin holes are not in the skimcoat, but rather the applied texture. (It was shot with air compressor). Researching, I see you use 5 min spackle or non-shrink spackle to fill in the pin holes. Also, it should be done after primer and before paint. But my painter did not fix the pin holes after primer and put a coat of”

“I’ve patched over this crack under my window twice now, but it keeps coming back. I tried notching it out and mudding it, then when it cracked again I notched it out, put mesh over the crack, mudded again, and it’s cracked again. Any advice? submitted by /u/ii-7V7IMaj7 [link] [comments]”

“Hello experts - I have a home from the 70's with pillowing on the ceilings throughout. Ceilings were put up with nails and blown in insulation. I am looking at having a company attempt to add screws to secure the drywall. The joists are 16" apart. Any opinions on feasibility of successfully securing with screws? The first 2 pics are the main bedroom and 3rd pic is the second smaller bedroom. The quote for these two rooms and a small bathroom came in at $3100. Thank you! submitted”

“I fucked up how much will this cost to fix? submitted by /u/CharmingRaisin8015 [link] [comments]”

“What is the best method to taping/mudding these 2 inside corners alongside the door? Left side has 1.25” clearance to the door frame, right side has 1.75”. Paper tape + mud? Metal inside-corner + mud? Straight-flex + spray? Perfect-90 + spray? submitted by /u/southernyankee84 [link] [comments]”

“Need to repair this crack. submitted by /u/Reasonable-Pop-3923 [link] [comments]”

“Hi everyone. Had a small leak in the shower that came through the ceiling below. Thankfully it was an easy fix. No mold, no moisture, kept it open for days to check for leaks and it's good to go. Going to get rid of the rust on the hangar bar. You can see the ceiling joists on the left and right of the hole. There are also blocking support pieces for the pipes shown in pic 2 and 3. I have the paint, materials and time to do it slow and steady. With the recessed light, the blocking pieces and”

“Drywall taper here you did all that stuff twice how many drywall screws did you add to the wall to make sure the Sheetrock is properly secured? Adding drywall screws can help prevent movement that causes cracking. Worst case you will have to remove the window trim the baseboard and a section of drywall to completely go over that trouble area with a new piece of drywall. some houses just want to have some crack no matter how many times you fix it.”

“True true. Just trying to avoid removing the trim due to the age/condition.”

“Drywall taper here the best method would be to remove the trim around the door. Then tape with paper tape and mud. If you don’t want to do the best method you will have to either buy a few small taping knives or a few plastic ones that can be cut to fit in those small gaps. It is also recommended to protect the trim with some painters tape. Be cautious when using tape it can ruin the finish on the wood if the directions are not followed correctly.”

“your saying spot prime the painted pinhole, then spackle, then prime, and paint? next time, i'll make sure to spackle after priming the whole area. so i don't see why i would have to spot prime. or do you mean, spot prime so it gets into the pinhole?”

“No, there's not a ton like I've seen in some posts/pics. Not where a skim of a knife could cover a bunch up. There's probably like 30? pinholes. Ranging from needle size to ~3mm and scattered.”

“Is it like a ton of pin holes? If so, I wouldn't use spackle. Spackle is alright for like a very small nick here and there. But not if there are areas with loads of pinhole. Imo, atleast.”