Printed parts break easily during printing
10 posts in the last 60 days, all from r/3Dprinting.
“Hi everyone. I am currently trying to print a hinge from a hood in my lab than will have to support glass. I managed to salvaged the pivot from the hinges which seemed to be made of acrylic plastic and I plan to reuse them but I face a bit of a bump in the road. I modeled…”
“I’m about to make a prototype for a multitool and I was planning on using this filament for the handle/ scale portion. Does anyone have experience with the wear and tear it might get after regular/ rough use? Does it crack or scuff up easily, or imbed glass fibers into your…”
“I'm just getting started with 3D printing, and I've heard that the orientation in which I print a part can have a impact on its final strength. Is it correct that FDM prints are generally weaker in the direction perpendicular to the layer lines (along the Z-axis, perpendicular…”
Users are encountering issues where printed parts, particularly calibration cubes and components with tabs, are fracturing or failing during the printing process. This is often linked to material properties, print orientation, or support structures.
SOURCES (10)
“I’m about to make a prototype for a multitool and I was planning on using this filament for the handle/ scale portion. Does anyone have experience with the wear and tear it might get after regular/ rough use? Does it crack or scuff up easily,…”
“I'm just getting started with 3D printing, and I've heard that the orientation in which I print a part can have a impact on its final strength. Is it correct that FDM prints are generally weaker in the direction perpendicular to the layer lines (along the Z-axis, perpendicular to the build plate)? If I have a part that needs to withstand a load in a specific direction, what would be the best way to orient the part to maximize its strength in that direction? Are there any general rules of”
“Hi everyone. I am currently trying to print a hinge from a hood in my lab than will have to support glass. I managed to salvaged the pivot from the hinges which seemed to be made of acrylic plastic and I plan to reuse them but I face a bit of a bump in the road. I modeled everything in fusion and started the print. the pivot pin I want to use have both ends hexagons and center is round and of a slightly smaller section so that it cannot move out. I therefore paused the print right at the top of”
“I designed this clamo which acts as a lever for a quick release. When clamping down it easily splits on the layers and has no force at all. Is there a better way to print, than lying flat? submitted by /u/fabibi0100 [link] [comments]”
“I am looking to print out some parts which will be subjected to prolonged stress, e.g; it’s part of a stand to hold some fairly heavy items in the 1-10kg range, and may have to hold them at 35-40 degrees C as we’ve had heat waves over the last few months. I’ve been researching different materials for this and will stay away from PLA or PLA+ due to their low temperature resistance, but does anyone know if PETG would be a good choice? I would increase the wall count to a high value and increase th”
“Just made this temperature tower in clear PolyFlow TPU 60D and I would like a second opinion, or a few. Note that when the print finished and I removed the part it literally tore apart at the 240 C layer - I think I should have waited longer for the part and bed to cool down and perhaps used some agent to help with lowering bed adhesion. Here are some of the settings used: Printed on an Ender 3V3 KE while being fed directly from a Space Pi filament dryer at 55 C (i live in a very humid area, it’”
“Pictured, a dimensional prototype in PLA that I need to print in higher temp with Fiberon PA612-CF15. I have several large functional prints for automotive use that need heat resistance but not particularly strength. Based on HDT and cost I selected the PA612-CF15 from polymaker/fiberon. I haven't done any test printing yet, but I did make a best guess at a filament profile for my XL based on the Fiberon provided profiles for other printers. I have: Prusa XL with enclosure. E3D Prusa Nozzle:”
“All cubes are 5 wall loops, 1.2mm top/bottom, 20% cubic infill, alternating extra wall. The PA6-CF cube that was not annealed has 3 wall loops. All cubes were printed in an enclosure with door closed. PET-CF & PA6-CF cubes were printed in 70C enclosure. The PA6-CF prints that were annealed were rehydrated post annealing. Didn’t measure torque on vise handle, but 50-60ft pounds is what i was applying before removing part. On PET-CF, i stopped after fracture. Vise is a Tegara 550V. A. Really s”
“Please help me determine the best orientation cor this part. I printed this flat, on my bambu A1, to test. Obviously the tabs will break off easily. But if I print at an angle it's like double the filament for support. If I print vertically its 50% more filament but too tall and I have to slow it down like crazy and risk print failures. Bambu A1 PETG (PLA pictured) Default speeds for now but slowed down for vertical prints Are there other good options im not considering? Thanks! submit”