3D printers require extensive troubleshooting and calibration

“Printer: Elegoo Centauri Carbon with Canvas System Material: Elegoo PLA default temps Speed: Default Software: Latest Orca Slicer I just installed my CC1 with a Canvas System. I wanted to try out multi color printing, so I decided to print a 2 color benchy. I downloaded the files from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:763622/files . I downloaded this specific file: 3DBenchy_-_Multi-part_-_Complete_17_shells_-_3DBenchy.com.stl I split the benchy into objects, selected the sections I want in”

“Donne with 0.2 nozze at 0.16 layer with elegoo neptune 3 pro submitted by /u/Wrong_Maybe1739 [link] [comments]”

“What slicer settings do I need to change in order to get smoother layer lines. I’m very new to this and am still getting used to orca slicer. submitted by /u/IndependentCod4495 [link] [comments]”

“I'm using a adventure 5m with elegoo matte pla and i'm trying to print some test molds but I am having trouble with the inset surface texture The top right corner is where the printer starts printing the inset surface and i thougth it was under extruding but when I try to isolate it (bottom prints) it doesn't seem to be the case The lines seem to be a little inconsistent between objects even with in the same print the third and fourth pictures show the layer before it starts the 6 su”

“Pla+, Kobra pro 2, ultiMaker Cura, 218°C, 90mm/s, Things ai has suggested that I've done... Reduce layer height (now .12) Increase skin overlap percentage (now 27%) Decrease retraction distance (now 1mm) This is for an airplane so the wall count can not be higher than 1 and the infill can be no higher than 3%. I have tested with different tempatures & speed. I have made sure there is no blockage in the printer by pushing filament through manually and also performing cold pulls. The PLA+”

“I feel like giving up. I have changed each recommended setting but just can seem to get a smooth print. Printer: Wanhao duplicator 9 Temps have ranged from 200-210°C Using eSun PLA Using Cura to slice. I've played around with the printing speed, the minimum layer time, the retraction speed but dont see any improvement. It feels almost as if the layers arent gluing together well, or creating these super visible uneven lines. The one print shown in the photos broke super easily. Quick stringin”

“Can i have some help with this banding issue? I tried lowering temp, minimum layer speed, and layer cooling. Max filament volume is 23mms Creality K2 Pro Creality Hyper PLA Creality Print slicer 200-300mms speed submitted by /u/Smart_Gate9406 [link] [comments]”

“Was having an issue with prints not sticking to the bed, I still am minorly but I have mostly gotten it fixed but my first layer still looks weird, tips, tricks settings? Using an original Prusa Mk3s with PETG submitted by /u/bowlingmusic [link] [comments]”

“Every print the 2 bottom layers print weird high points and the nozzle smacks into it. I was printing with a .4mm nozzle which didn’t look as bad since it smaller, but I just put on a 0.6mm nozzle and it’s way more noticeable. What would I adjust to fix this? Printer is a fusion 3 f410 I got for free and I’m using f3slic3r which is the company’s version of prusaslicer submitted by /u/Life_Ad3937 [link] [comments]”

“I’m using an ender 3 to print book risers for my wife the first layer keeps doing this. I’m using PLA speed at 100. Temp for first layers are 210 then down to 205. I’m using the prusa slicer. Any help would be appreciated submitted by /u/Not-The-Mama-583 [link] [comments]”

“I did one of the calibration tests but i’m not sure how to interpret it all. i’m using my new Centauri Carbon with standard 0.4 nozzle. The filament is Deeplee Matte PLA. Also I had to press the 0.15 cube out. the rest slipped out. submitted by /u/zoftherian [link] [comments]”

“Just looking to see if anyone else has had this issue and what they did. Hopefully the photos do it justice. It’s more of a perfectionist thing in me. Centauri 2 - 0.4 Nozzle using Elegoo Slicer. Elegoo Galaxy Black PLA, Printed at 220C 0.14 Layer Height, not adaptive. Layer width, fan speed, and layer speeds are consistent throughout the model. Main thing that changes is the layer times. 3 wall loops, 5 top layers 3 bottom with default 1mm and .6mm minimum thickness respectively. Any help would”

“I’m consistently having this really weird problem where my extruder keeps trying to gouge the print into the build plate, so I have to manually adjust the Z offset on my printer. Once I do that, the first couple of layers, print, fine, but then it drops back down to gouging the build plate and I can’t for the life of me figure out why it’s doing this. The picture I added is of the most recent print I tried to run. I don’t know if you can see it clearly, but the entire print area moved off to the”

“I just got some PLA+ and started having some issues. It was printing ok with the regular PLA but now all the sudden it's not sticking. I cleaned the print bet with IPA. Printer is a stock ender 3 S1Plus submitted by /u/DrivenDemon [link] [comments]”

“Im new to 3D printing and im trying to make Agamemnons helmet from The Odyssey on my Creality K1 Max but it keeps coming out wrong how can i adjust my settings on orca slicer? Any help would be appreciated submitted by /u/N0rmal_account [link] [comments]”

“All these are printed about 20 degrees off vertical. I can’t seem to get rid of these extremely apparent print lines. Ive tried changing cooling, print speeds, supports, brim types, extrusion and print quality. I haven’t tried changing temps yet and don’t know what else I can change. I’m wondering if this is just the quality of 3d prints? If it is then that’s okay I can deal with it but if I can get better quality I really can’t figure out what to do. It honestly seems like I get the exact same”

“https://preview.redd.it/u9zjarmy95uh1.png?width=900&format=png&auto=webp&s=7ede583e123b682d4080a98ba441223c9b91401c Hi, So i have a Neptune 4 Plus. I just got it some days ago so i am still on the learning side. Now in the orca slicer. The settings i had changed i cant remember. Now the one on the top is from one of the flow ratio test prints first layer and the second one is from now. U can see the gaps in the one below. How do i fix it. I am not going towards bigger print cause of”

“I’m using elegoo CC2 combo with elegoo slicer submitted by /u/HelloJonatha2 [link] [comments]”

“Basically I got this 3D printer yesterday and I’m trying and trying to print a figure, but anytime I do I have it centered on OrcaSlicer it puts it in the far off corner, and it can’t reach or something and just sits there and doesn’t start, I’ve adjusted the Starting point, where I want the X Y to start the print, I’ve moved it on Orca Slicer and it just doesn’t want to work correctly, can I get some help, this is super frustrating submitted by /u/Echonkecho [link] [comments]”

“I'm really new in this world so I have no clue what I'm doing wrong. I'm using a creality ender 3 pro with PLA and for the slicer I'm using Orca slicer. I tried making this figure shown in the image but always have the problem that some parts just don't fill right. For some reason in this case this only happens on the top part. I tried changing the nozzle temperature, the velocity and some other features in the orca slicer but didn't work. Right now the nozzle temperature”

“Does anyone have tips on improving the top layer of these prints (sorry for potato quality) I have a Neptune 3 Pro and use Ultimaker Cura (I know people prefer Orca im just bad at using it and more comfortable with cura) submitted by /u/GinPhantom [link] [comments]”

“I am currently 3D printing a part; I outsourced it to a vendor. Every print is failing due to warping. I asked the vendor for the printer settings - Elegoo Centauri Carbon Nozzle temp - 230 C Bed temp - 90 C Speed - 60 mm/sec Filament - ABS I think Brim is set on Auto https://preview.redd.it/9am98kq41mth1.png?width=286&format=png&auto=webp&s=8f2be9d135c5306db5d87a7162ad0fa2ef47e1d4 How do I fix this? The part in the currently oriented with its largest face as its base on the bed. &#3”

“Is there a setting I need to play with to get these first setting imperfections to look cleaner? Or do I need to add supports? Printed on bbu h2c without supports in PLA, but the final product may also be printed in PETG. Print was oriented with the overhang as a test as it's part of a larger model, so printing it upside down won't fix it as there will be another wall on the other side. And if I do print with supports, will having an interface that's a different material help with ho”

“Elegoo Centauri Carbon, Elegoo PLA, 225c temp, mac print speed 42 mm3, Elegooslicer. I’m having a devil of a time trying to figure out what is wrong with my overhangs. I’m new to this. I’ve ran every test I can, and adjusted all the settings accordingly, but every time I print overhangs I get this mess. What am I missing? submitted by /u/AlamoJack [link] [comments]”

“Hey guys, k1 max pla @215°c and slower speeds than stock and @ 50% to try and midigate the issue. I have this issue with my z axis surface, sometimes nothing, other times a little but today had a quite large issue on a large print. What is this effect known as? And any ideas and help would be much appreciated! Also the pattern is completely random and not exactly repeated but it follows some type of path. submitted by /u/z32build [link] [comments]”

“Troubleshooting Info: Printer: Creality K1 SE Material & Temps: Black PLA @ 220C / PETG @ 240C Slicer: Creality Print 2.6 Issue Details: I’ve had my K1 SE running smoothly for over 1,100 hours (since last year), but over the past couple of weeks, I've run into an intermittent layer quality issue. Occasionally, a print will experience a few layers of severe underextrusion/poor quality, causing the layers above to disconnect or split. In the attached photos, you can see a bin where the fir”

“I am using a Neptune 4 Plus with a Wham Bam PEX build plate. I've always had issues with getting a really nice stick on the first layer so I started to adjust the first layer settings to get a little more squish. Eventually I sorted out some nice settings, but now the second and third layer feel very squished. So obviously I have the nozzle too close on the first layer, but because of the slicer settings I am not seeing the issue until it hops up a layer and starts to look bad. What are some”

“Im using Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra and tried to print the sample Rook but it didnt come out right. Part of it is missing. See photos. Anyone know what may be the problem(s)? Elegoo Saturn 3 Ultra Elegoo Standard Photopolymer Resin - Gray 21 celcius room temperature Chitubox Sample Rook file Completed in 2h24m2s submitted by /u/kikilucy26 [link] [comments]”

“I have the Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 combo. I switch to .08 layer, Arachne, and slowed putter wall speed down to 100. I’m using PLA + High speed. I’ve only been at this for a few days so I’m still learning. What else should I change to get rid of this? Thank you :) submitted by /u/i__dunno__man [link] [comments]”

“Hello I am using the Creality K1C and Creality slicer. The filament is a generic matte pla at 210 f. I’m trying to get the smoothest possible surface with ironing and this happened… The flow rate is at 60 and the nozzle isn’t going very fast. It also has a spacing of .15 mm between each nozzle pass. Could you guys advise me on how to get a better surface? If any more info is needed, please let me know. Thank you submitted by /u/OriginalPatient7457 [link] [comments]”

submitted by /u/ozikov [link] [comments]

“Hello. I use orca slicer and my temp print is always lower when printing. As an example, my PLA profile has a print temp of 215, the slicer shows 215, the previou of the already slice piece shows 215, but when I send the print it will do 205. Same with other filaments such as PETG which I have set to 235 and it will always print at 225. any help to fix this is highly appreciated, thank you. submitted by /u/Ok_Explorer9455 [link] [comments]”

“Ankermake m5 Pla at 220c Low speed Eufymake 3d submitted by /u/Fun_Chemical339 [link] [comments]”

“I have printed the two halves of an enclosure in PET-CF17. Printer is a Prusa MK4 nozzel 285 and bed 80 degree first layer, 75 after. For both prints, I prepared the bed cleaning it with hot water and soap, then drying with alcohol and finally a thin layer of glue stick. To my surprise, after the second half was printed (the one on the right), the first layer was completely different!!! like, incomplete? Anyone can tell me what is wrong here? Both pieces have been sliced with prusa slicer, both”

“Hey everyone, I recently moved my Raise3D Pro3 to a different room. Since the relocation, I've run into an issue with the nozzle dragging/scratching across the top of the initial solid layers (photos attached). Here is what I've done so far: * Relocated the printer and ensured it sits on a sturdy surface. * Completed a full Z-offset calibration. * The first layer goes down decently, but around layers 2–3 (solid infill), the nozzle clearly starts plowing through the extruded plastic, leav”

“Swapped to new material and everything, is this a slicer issue? I just swapped from orca slicer the GitHub code to the windows application. I’ve never seen this before. I added front and back pics. Edit: K1C printer Generic PLA Orca slicer Never happened before submitted by /u/slicerd10 [link] [comments]”

“Hi everyone, I’m new to 3D printing and recently got a Creality Ender-3 V3 SE. At the moment, I’m printing with PETG at 230°C for the nozzle and 70°C for the bed. With all of my prints, the first layer always looks really clean and matte black, like you can see in the photo. However, all the layers above it end up looking shiny and kind of melted together, which makes the prints look pretty bad. I’ve already tried slowing down the top layers in Cura, but that didn’t make any difference. I’ve als”

“Any advice on this printing error? I already dried my filament, tried to reduce velocity (which helped but didnt solved). Im using pla basic from esun, temperature and flow calibrated. Maybe some retraction calibration missing? submitted by /u/ApexAddicted [link] [comments]”

“Hey all, just want to thank you in advance for any help for a newbie to 3d printing. Firstly i am using an elegoo Neptune 4 pro as the printer and I use Bambu Studio as my slicer. I am using basic PLA and I am running at 'normal' speed on the printer. I have been 3d printing for just over a month and have run into a few issues but nothing I wasn't able to fix myself. However, the last few prints I have tried to do have been a nightmare to work with. I was only able to get pictures of”

“Creality K2 Plus Generic PLA+ Hoping that you guys can suggest a setting adjustment or tip to fix these random blips on my prints. All my prints basically look like they have acne. submitted by /u/tjhorsekiller [link] [comments]”

“Hello! I am still new to printing, and need to get something printing at a higher quality if possible. I have seen posts on here a bout calibrations using orca slicer, but I have not run those. I am using an Anker Make m5 printer with EONO3D PETG filament. I was using Anker Pla+ but realized it could warp in shipping due to heat. I have added some photos of the prints, as well as it mounted and painted. Any advice or tips ? Edit for detail, I am using a .2 nozzle, it was brand new filament fresh”

“Using PLA at 200c and 60c for bed. I'm thinking my extruder is sitting too low? Or bed just needs a clean, this is a 2nd hand printer submitted by /u/Numerous_Choice_1817 [link] [comments]”

“My CC2 printer is leaving massive gaps in the first layer of the prints, which aren’t present when I print the same file on my Bambu A1. Do I need to increase the initial layer line width, increase nozzle temperature, plate temp, or something else? submitted by /u/NobleMansRose [link] [comments]”

“Hello there! The case is next: I have Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 and 0.4 nozzle, and I'm concerned about overhang quality. Above is a photo of a simple overhang test with the calibrated Rapid PLA+. As you can see, starting from 50°, the quality started to worsen. I had these strange protrusions, blobs, like the printer didn't stop and moved the print head farther than necessary. \"Wave overhang\" test And here is the test that was printed with the "Wave overhangs" fork”

submitted by /u/nickythelionboi [link] [comments]

“Hello there! The case is next: I have Elegoo Centauri Carbon 2 and 0.4 nozzle, and I'm concerned about overhang quality. Above is a photo of a simple overhang test with the calibrated Rapid PLA+. As you can see, starting from 50°, the quality started to worsen. I had these strange protrusions, blobs, like the printer didn't stop and moved the print head farther than necessary. \"Wave overhang\" test And here is the test that was printed with the "Wave overhangs" fork”

“I recently picked up an aycubic S1 max and after dialing in my PLA settings in their Next Slicer, decided to give ABS a try. Have had some funky issues, but this one has stumped me thus far. On the first layer, the print head seems to be constantly Z hopping, which is creating peaks of material in the layer that then get squished down and causes me to get a crappy looking layer that messes up some of my tolerances. I stepped through the print head movement in the slicer (see photos, i stepped th”

“My homepoint is not a bit offset (this is a new printer and i did not clean it yet) submitted by /u/barteqqqq2q [link] [comments]”

“Hello. I am using an A1 Mini with eSun PLA+ at 220 degrees for the nozzle and 65 for the bed. I have the part at 40% infill mainly so that it feels heavier. The part seems to keep warping in the same corner every time I try to print it. I tried reducing the infill to 25% but somehow that just made it worse, tried using a different infill pattern(gyroid compared to rectilinear) as well. I am not sure what to do to fix this. The part is pretty wide and flat so I figured a brim wouldnt be necessary”

“In the pics the two complete egg bottoms were printed on a Snapmaker U1 and the partial was printed on an X2D. Any ideas why they look droopy like that? Neither slicer recommended supports. Should I have added them? I’m really unsure what to do next. submitted by /u/NaiveAssist2530 [link] [comments]”

“Wood PLA on a Core One L. 0.6mm nozzle, 15mm cubed max flow, 90mm/s support wall speed I've tried adjusting retractions, pressure advance, temperatures, speeds, etc, all within a large range. Nothing seems to get rid of these defects on single wall organic supports. Does anyone know the proper name for this defect? They happen right after the layer start so I thought they are either caused by poorly tuned PA or too much retraction. I've tried calibrating both and neither seem to fix it.”

“I was printing out a Cobra on my U1 that I had painted in Full Spectrum. I forgot to set a brim and and had the bed temp too low. Snapmaker U1, Basic PLA, Snorca Full Spectrum, Cold Plate 35-55 degrees for PLA. Only after it warped enough that the nozzles were clipping it did I realize this. Now I can't find the Cobra model on my computer and if I could, I don't know if I saved it after painting it. So I downloaded the gcode from my U1, loaded it back into Snorca to see if I code find th”

“Hey there, I recently had a bad print that has led me down a rabbit hole of trying to reproduce it for an idea I'm prototyping. I'm new to printing, and of course lost the settings which contributed to this. I'm using elegooslicer/orca. Printer is the CC2. The top is missing its layers, but has a tightly knit structure. It has no encasing... I'm not sure that's the right word, but this structure does not have any layers around it. Just below this knitting are the tunnels that”

“Hey there ;-) After I spend weeks of testing and calibrating eSun PETG Basic, I am still not happy with it. While original Prusa PETG produces perfect prints and the nozzle stays clean.... I still struggle with eSun PETG. Prints are somewhere between "okay" and "so far so good". Printer: Prusa Core One L+ Software: PrusaSlicer, 0,15mm Structural Profile Nozzle: Obsidian 500 (non-HF) 0.4mm Print temp: between 245 and 250 Max volumetric speed: between 9 and 12 mm3 Extrusion mul”

“Hi, Would like some help regarding calibration results. I have several machines and will post several similar stuff. Orca slicer Sidewinder X2, stock hotend and extruder Except full cleaning, lubrication, tightend belts and replaced the wheels. I have put stabilizers on Z axis, 5015 cooling fan. Everything else is stock. PETG, 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 layer height First off im wondering why my first layer looks like over/under extrusion? Z offset is good and i recently did flow and pressure advance calib”

“I am getting uneven raised veins as you can see in my print on all the top surfaces. Settings are default .12mm High Quality @BBL P2S. Nozzle is .4mm. When there is no infill, the top layer is smooth. Filament is from Wol3D PLA+ and dried for 12 hours in eSUN eBOX for 12 hours are 50 degree. Help me figure out the issue. submitted by /u/arshadejaz [link] [comments]”

submitted by /u/SATorACT [link] [comments]

“The first couple hundred layers were fine, but at the halfway point and near the top it’s like my printer gave up on one row. I use Snapmaker Orca for my U1, was printing with PLA at .2 layer height and base settings for pretty much everything else. I was purging into one of the shapes instead of a purge tower but that shouldn’t have anything to do with this one line? submitted by /u/happyplace28 [link] [comments]”

“Recently come across some warping issues on my p2s , specifically with prints that have a large base area and print close to the edge of my bed. I’ve cleaned the bed, increased bed temp, re calibrated the bed levelling and have redirected the flow of air cooling from the right side. Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. submitted by /u/D_R_A_Z_O [link] [comments]”